CHAPTER 4 - NAKURU AND THE UGANDA RAILWAY

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Map of Kenya with Nakuru located below the equator ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------





Nakuru borrowed its’ name from the Maasai word, ‘Nakurro’ meaning 'dusty place'. It came into existence during the thrust of the Kenya-Ugandan Railway. Nakuru is sandwiched between Lake Nakuru to the south and Menengai crater, an extinct volcano on the northern side of the town, that scales to a height of 2,490 m. It is the second largest surviving crater in the world with a surface area of 90 sq km. Interestingly enough, in the 19th century it was the site of a bloody battle between different Masai clans vying for the pastures of the Rift Valley slopes and Naivasha. The Ilaikipiak morans were defeated by their southern neighbors, the Ilpurko Masai, who reputedly threw the former over the crater edge. According to the legend, the fumaroles rising from the crater beds are the souls of the vanquished seeking to find the way to heaven. The Maa word, ‘Menenga’ means ‘the dead.’








Further to the North East of the town is Bahati Escarpment that forms the western fringe of the Abedare Escarpment. Lake Nakuru National Park lies close to Nakuru town and was established in 1961. It started off small, only encompassing the famous lake and the surrounding mountainous vicinity. The lake was encircled by swampy land followed by savanna. Lake Nakuru is one of the Rift Valley soda lakes and is famous for its' vast numbers of flamingos and wild animals. It is the fourth largest urban centre in Kenya and lies 1859 m above sea level.






The history of Nakuru can be traced back to prehistoric times. Archaeological discoveries were made in 1926 by Louis and Mary Leakey, about 4 km away, at the Hyrax Hill reserve. The excavations found evidence of seasonal settlements as far back as 3,000 years ago. The presence of beach sand indicated that Lake Nakuru may have extended to the base of the hill in former times, signifying that Hyrax Hill could very well have been a peninsular or an island. It acquired its' name during the early part of the 20th century because of the abundant hyraxes that dominated the rocky fissures of the hill. It is considered one of the country’s most important Neolithic excavation sites dating back from 1500 B.C. Nakuru also owes part of its' early growth due to Lord Delamere.

Ibrahim and his fellow travellers rose early the next morning after a not so restful night under the stars. With wild animals lurking in the dark of the night, sleep had totally escaped them. One of the men had been feasted upon by fleas and was having a hard time dealing with the outcome. Ibrahim stood up and stretched his thinning body and drew in the early morning air, it smelled sweet as he inhaled it into his lungs. The temperature was perfect and warmed up his cold bones gently, Ibrahim embraced the feeling.

Having reached his destination, an excitement filled his soul and a sudden surge of energy flowed through his body, he was ready to accomplish his life's dream. Nakuru was an entrepot in the centre of the Rift Valley. It was an unspoiled, windswept and arid plain without any villages or 'bomas', there was not a soul in sight.

Powdery light-brown soda-dust blew in clouds around the lake, filling his nostrils uncomfortably, he cupped his hand over his nose before turning his back on the wind. The ground was spongy beneath, as he stood still to admire the view. The glassy lake rippled with pink, mirrored the velvety deep-turquoise mountains that enveloped half way around. Flamingo hill towered handsomely on the other side. The colors were strikingly sensational. He imprinted the magnificent picture in his mind's eye and captured the moment forever. As they walked through the thicket, the flat topped yellow acacia trees stood grandly in the far distance. They talked amongst themselves, occasionally hearing a rustling amongst the shaggy overgrown grass, more often than not, it was a herd of antelope, trailing along side one another. On noticing the men, they would nervously flick their bushy tails, taking off in leaps and bounds in the opposite direction. ‘A land blessed with abounding beauty’, thought Ibrahim as he pondered over the marvels of Africa’s incredible nature. In the far distance, pelicans floated about with their long boat-like beaks, their heads bopping up and down every few seconds as they scooped up water.




Leopards inhabited the area and they had heard the distant howls of silver back jackals as they huddled together under their carts at night. Sometimes their hearts boomed uncontrollably in their ears as an adrenalin rush gushed through them whenever they heard a startling sound. The thought of facing these fierce beasts unarmed, made their skin crawl. Jiggers were still a menace and drinking water was closely guarded as it was drawn from rivers or streams. As they continued, a rich savannah stretched itself handsomely across the land, only interrupted by low lying hills scattered at intervals.

Ibrahim wished to remain relatively near the shores of the Lake as it was a landmark known to first time travellers. He needed a supply of fresh water within a few miles of him, and had secretly picked a location. He decided to branch off from the group and took himself back towards the lake.

Setting up shop under a small tent, he could be seen merchandising anything from foodstuff, small hardware goods and other useful items. Getting attacked by wild animals was one of the dangers that continued to poise a threat. He protected himself at night by using chopped thorn bushes that he encircled around his tent at night. When supplies ran low, he made the long hike back to Nairobi, sometimes journeying all the way to Mombasa, taking months before arriving back in Nakuru. And many times, when business was down, he would barter cloth or beads in exchange for food. In 1898, his mules died due to tsetse fly, and he traded cloth for some more.



These were some the most difficult, challenging and very long moments in Ibrahim's life; knowing his family were far so away did not help matters. Sometimes weeks could go by without him seeing a single soul, and the nights that followed, seemed even darker. The stillness echoed in silence, channeling an emptiness between his ears with a faint high pitched frequency that transcended him into an innermost journey of his soul. As time rolled by and with the railway line progressing towards Nakuru, the pristine wilderness was soon transformed and people started to trickle in.



The Lake when the Uganda Railway reached Nakuru

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The first major Indian influx in Kenya began in the late the 1800's with the building of the railway from Mombasa to Victoria Nyanza, (Lake Victoria), and again in the early 1900's when many more Indian settlers arrived. The construction of the railway required a skilled labour force of stonemasons, carpenters, builders, blacksmiths and casual labourers. The labourers were referred to by the British as 'coolies.' When the word entered the English language, it was a designated term used for a low-status class of workers; nowadays, a few people regard it as a racial epithet or a slur. Most of the recruited Indian workforce was done under contract of the Northwest Province of India by Mr A. M. Jivanjee. Ronald Preston was appointed to take charge of laying rails in 1897. Mr. George Whitehouse, Lieu-Col. J. H. Patterson and Mr. Ronald Preston were the engineers. Approximately 32,000 Indians and 2,600 Africans laboured on the construction of what came to be known as the 'Uganda Railway'. The first rail was laid in Mombasa on 30th May, 1896. In 1898, man-eating lions delayed the construction of the railway, killing eighty African and twenty-five Indian labourers and one British superintendent called C. H Ryall; hence the book, ‘Maneaters of Tsavo’ and 'Ghost and the Darkness'. The British had named one of the lions, ghost and the other darkness. J.H Patterson, a divisional engineer, managed to kill one of the lions, and three weeks later, he killed the second. These courageous and hardworking men who dug the land, bit by bit, mile for mile, sacrificed not only their families, and country, but themselves when they crossed the waters into Africa. Tough living conditions, lack of water and food, hard manual labor using picks or shovels, heavy loads of rocks that scared their nude hands, outbreaks of diseases such as malaria, black water fever, plague, dysentery, typhoid, small pox and septicemia were just a few of the ailments they endured. Long delays due to heavy rains that damaged earth works and caused derailment and locusts added to the suffering. After the completion of the 582 miles of the Lunatic line, about 7,000 Indians stayed on in Kenya, 2,500 had died and 6,000 were invalid.



Men working on the railway

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In the 1900’s, a vast number of European settlers arrived, mostly from South Africa, followed by the British, Australians, Germans and people of other European descent. Initially the first British to visit Kenya, did so as game hunters, and on seeing the abundance of wildlife, wide open spaces and beautiful landscape, applied for land. It seemed as a privileged life style, in comparison to the one they were accustomed to in Europe, after the Industrial revolution. Until the 1880's, the Rift Valley and the Aberdare highlands remained the heartland of the Maasai. The English negotiated a treaty with the Maasai laibon (chief, or spiritual leader) to begin work on the Mombasa-Uganda railway, which cut straight through the Maasai grazing lands. The British government hence invited the European settlers due to the massive expenses incurred constructing the railway, hoping to recover the phenomenal cost through extensive exports of settler cash crops. The allocation of land to the European farmers, meant that many tribes were driven out of their habitat and pastoral lands, and made to relocate in other designated areas. The first ‘Land Regulations’ of the East Africa Protectorate had been published in 1897, but it had not affected the country until 1899. The regulations were later replaced by the ‘Crowns Land Ordinance in 1902 where by granting freehold or leases of up to ninety-nine years.


By December 1901 the railway line from Mombasa to Kisumu had been completed. This eventually put an end to the massive slave trade in East Africa and jointly, to the caravan loads of slave porters that trekked their way for months on end carrying burdensome loads across the country, and into Uganda. Ivory though continued as a major trade commodity.







Nakuru Station when the Ugandan rail line first joined it in 1900


Royal Train in Nakuru Station



Nakuru Railway Station

Dedicated to my Father and Mother

DEDICATED TO MY FATHER AND MOTHER

T H E H O U S E T H A T S T O O D S T I L L



I begin the story from where I remember, before going back to where it all started..........


My Father was the ‘glue’ of the family, he was the chain that kept us together. Life with him was secure, exciting, warm and comforting. He had an aura that was so strong, his presence was felt the moment he set foot in a room. And when he did, the room froze, and all eyes gave him their divided attention. Strange as it may sound, he had that effect. He was an intelligent man, humble by nature, with a charm that was irresistible. Taller than average he was strikingly handsome, and to the joy of the ladies, very eligible. When he married, it was to the woman of his choice, an equally incredible woman, and the power of their love could clearly be felt any where they went.


Born in 1932 in Nakuru, he was a premature baby, and adopted the name of ‘Cotton wool baby.' Every night, after his bath my grandmother carefully wrapped a cotton wool blanket cut from the roll, to keep his tiny and frail little body warm. They named him Mohamed. It was believed by the community that to name him after the Prophet was a bad omen, but the family dismissed any superstition, blessing him with the name of their liking.

Mohamed Karimbux grew up to be an extremely compassionate man, with intense feelings and sensitivity to people around him, and to his environment. A curious and inquisitive man by far, it opened his mind to the wide world, loving the diversity in culture, music, architecture and the arts. Giving his attention to the strategic development of the family's businesses, he maintained and vastly improved the industries and commercial interests with high margin profits and maximum capacity. His self reliant personality together with his determination, hard work and devotion made him a highly respected figure with in the business society and the people of Nakuru. Mischievous at times, and a gifted humorist, he was a true example of a leader and a the best example of a father figure.

My mother, Aziza, (nee Sadiq) was a highly admired woman in Nakuru. She had poise and elegance that other women would envy and later imitate, but none of them were quite a match for her. Always immaculately dressed, from head to toe, her grooming was sophisticated, and her mannerism appealingly dignified and charming. She was a natural. As children, we would look forward to dressing up in her clothes and trying on her shoes and accessories at any given chance. Her wardrobe stretched half way down the room. Continuous lines of clothes hung above the lower shelves filled with a rainbow of multiple styles of handbags and shoes that we could never keep count of, as it was continuously up-dated to follow the ever changing fashion trends.

My parent’s marriage was perfect, in fact, so perfect, that it was too good to be true. Theirs was a marriage made in heaven. They loved each other immensely, and enjoyed their time together with equal trust, respect and support for each other. She was his angel, he was her prince, and together they made a fairy tale come true. Nothing could separate them, their eyes told it all, and they were the envy of most couples around them, yet to others, a perfect example of a union that was genuine, and quite rare.

Arranged marriages were compulsory, and these were strictly adhered to. Children were brought up with this tradition instilled firmly in them, and there was no exceptions to the rule . My mother, unbeknown to her, was engaged to a total stranger at the time of her birth and had no idea that this arrangement had taken place between her parents and the boy's parents. This sort of arrangement was a fairly common practice back then.

The first time my father set eyes on my mother, his mind was made up to marry her, he fell deeply in love with her, and the feeling was mutual. The love was instantly magnetic and they were determined to be together for the rest of their lives. Only they had the first hurdle to face and it was to be one of their first and most challenging experiences to encounter as a young couple in love. Aziza's parents refused to surrender to their pleas, as they felt they would be discredited for not keeping their word of honor or fulfilling their side of the bargain. It would bring shame and humiliation to the family. After months of pleading, many tears and bargaining, Aziza's parents finally gave in, it was something they never regretted for the rest of their lives.

The marriage took place in Nairobi, and my mother was taken on a 100-mile journey across the escarpment to the little town of Nakuru. He honored her, she cherished him, he treasured her, she valued him, he showered her with love, she reciprocated, he bought her the best, and she brought out the best in him. They were perfectly compatible, but life and nature do not go along with this theory. Nature is cruel, and is not a replica of a fairy-tale ending, as much as we dream and hope for it to be so.

BOOK ONE-Chapter 1- Winds of Change

CHAPTER ONE

Winds of Change

My great grandfather was an intelligent and very ambitious young man. Nothing could prevent him from making his dreams come to fruition. He had visions of being successful, and he desperately wanted his parents and family to have a better life. The hardships were many in India, and it was a downhill struggle surviving under the British Rule.

Being enterprising and head strong, his thirst for knowledge and adventure drove through every cell in his body. His mission in life was to be a dutiful Muslim, work hard, support his family, and be charitable. His compassion for people, especially those in less fortunate circumstances, was intense, even from a very young age. By nature, he was a kind and extremely giving man.

Seth Ibrahim Karimbux was born a Sunni Muslim, in Ambala, district of Punjab, India in 1876. (Ibrahim means, ‘Father of Nations’ in Arabic). Ibrahim was the elder of two brothers, with a maturity greater than his age. His younger brother, Abdullah was a carefree soul who never quite made it in life. Often he stole money from under his mother’s pillow to support his habits, he did enjoy his alcohol and got a taste for gambling, those were to be his weaknesses in life.

Ibrahim's father was a successful fruit-merchant. A hard working and honest soul, who faithfully brought home every penny of his daily earnings. Ibrahim assisted his father in the business and when he was not in the orchards purchasing supplies, he was actively seen in the village centre marketing and making fresh contacts. Together they formed a good team as they were as industrious as one another. Ibrahim’s father did not have to train the teenager much, he seemed to have a natural flair in the business sense.

Ibrahim was short in stature and of medium build. He had an oval face with dramatically piercing black eyes, a small, but sharp nose, and a small mouth, all framed with a neatly cut black beard and moustache. His head always clothed in a white ‘imamah’, (turban); a practice followed by Muslims for religious reasons,and also to differentiate them from non-Muslims. His everyday attire was the same, wearing a traditional outfit from Punjab, called a ’Sulwar Kameez’,(a long shirt coming below the knees, worn with baggy trousers), and a simple blue waistcoat or jacket.
Ibrahim walked with his head slightly tilted down, never quite straightening his neck to its full extent. It was as if he preferred not to draw any more attention than necessary to himself.


He thought very deeply about his intentions of leaving India, as his main concern was his brother Abdullah; wondering how his father would cope if he were not behaving. But he was also very aware of a bleak future in any business opportunities if he were to remain, as the British had control over the industries. He reflected on the history of his birthplace and India.

Ambala forms a part of the Indian state Haryana, and is located on the border, off the states of Haryana and Punjab. It lies on the North-Eastern edge of Haryana between 27-39"-45' North latitude and 74-33"-53' to 76-36"-52' East longitude. Flowing through the district are a number of non-perennial streams and due to that, it earned the name of ‘The Land of Five Rivers.’

There are a number of legends behind its name and according to one, it was discovered in the 14th century by someone called, ‘Amba Rajput.' According to another, it was named after the Goddess, ‘Bhawani Amba’. Another version claims that the town was originally called 'Amb Wala' (place of Mangoes), and over time it changed to its present name of Ambala. Ambala was given the status of a district in the year 1847.
Ambala is classified as being one of the great and famous historical districts of the state of Haryana.

The British built a Cantonment in Ambala that lay at an important junction on the ‘Great Trunk Road’ to enable easy access to Delhi and Chandigarh and other places. It now serves as a major highway today being widely and extensively used.

In 1857 a revolt took place over the introduction of 'Enfield rifles' with in the Indian Army. Unknown to the Indian soldiers, the cartridges had been greased with an ointment containing cow's fat and hog's lard. Once the news leaked, it did not go down well with both the Hindus and the Muslims, who were outraged, as it went against their religious teaching. The Hindus consider the cow as being sacred and therefore do not kill, handle or consume products originating from the corpse of a cow; and similarly, with Muslims, it is forbidden to consume or handle any products from pigs.

They soon formed alliances with in the corps, agreeing to socially boycott those that used the cartridges. This feeling continued to grow until a spirit of mutiny spread throughout northern India and Bengal. Almost the whole region of Haryana was severely affected by the revolt. And as a result of this, the first military station in northern India was based in Ambala on 10 May 1857.
By early June 1857, almost the entire region of Haryana had gained independence from the British. But half a year later, the rebels were crushed ruthlessly by the British army who let loose an unprecedented reign of terror, killing thousands of people and destroying property worth many rupees. They burned down hundreds of villages, whilst aimlessly killing anyone who came their way.

In India administrative and legal changes were introduced, by 1861 the Indian Council Act, High Court Act and Penal code were passed.
By 1868 the new Ambala to Delhi railway line begun construction, however, previously in 1853, the first railway line opened from Bombay to Thane.

A great famine was sweeping the country due to a combination of administrative failures and natural factors. In 1866 Bengal and Orissa, one million people perished and in 1869 one and a half million perished in Rajasthan and between 1876-78 famine had taken the lives of five million in Bombay, Madras and Mysore.

Indian industries suffered massively under the British domination. The superior and extensive sale of Indian handicrafts in Europe was directed to benefit commercial interests of the East India Company. The Whig government in the early years of the 18th century imposed heavy duties on Indians textiles imports in Britain. After the Napoleonic wars, Indian markets were opened to the British for free trading. The British government brought British goods that were pouring into India, either duty free or at nominal costs. The policy of the one-way free trade, introduced in India made the Indian handicrafts lose its market. This caused great misery to a major section of India's population. India was subjected in an ongoing economic stagnation. Local tradesmen, small enterprises and peasants reverted to borrowing money as they could least afford the high taxes imposed by the British.


Ibrahim had heard stories being swapped amongst the British people about British East Africa. They spoke highly of the country Kenya, and Ibrahim learned that there were great opportunities for those who were thirsty for adventure and favourable business prospects, on the condition that one was ready to face hardships. This intrigued him and his mind was made up to go to Kenya and make something out of his life. He planned to call for his entire family once he had succeeded. He had something important to prove to himself, he needed to find himself and recognize his strengths. Being opposed to having everything handed down to him from his father; his achievements were going to be his alone. However his conscientious nagged him tremendously as he knew most definitely, that without the second pair of helping hands, his father would suffer and consequently, so would his family. But he also knew, that by not leaving when his mind was made up, he would never leave.

In order to leave India, Ibrahim needed money for the long voyage to Kenya. Although he had managed to save a meager amount of his earnings, his conscience would not allow him to dip into it. Having two rupees in his pocket from the day's return, he surrendered himself to it. Leaving his savings for his young wife, he silently prayed for his family without revealing his intention. In his thoughts, he bade them a sad goodbye, and in the quiet of the night, Ibrahim slipped out into the darkness, destined to the unknown and facing the fear of never seeing them again. He knew that there was no turning back now. Ibrahim was only nineteen years old. He left behind his young wife, Karmi, a baby daughter and another one year old daughter . The year was 1895.

Ibrahim embarked on a long and treacherous journey by ‘vahan’, (the Gujarati word for dhow), from Porbandar, Gujarat, North-western India bound for the East African Coast of Mombasa, Kenya. Sailing on a ‘Bagala’, (one of the many names given to different types of dhows, that were classified by the shape of their hull), the journey would last about thirty days or longer. The dhow would be wind propelled by the north-easterly monsoons blowing from the Arabian Peninsula, beginning in November and lasting until March.

At dawn, a loud banging bellowed everywhere to alert the passengers to board the dhow. The winds and tide were in their favour to make a good start for the journey. With the anchor lifted and the sails set in motion, the giant pushed the waters aside with a sudden roll that shook the passengers with a shudder, knocking some of them onto one another. Ibrahim looked intently at the shores that he had just left behind. In the distance, he could see the fishing vessels being prepared for their daily task and the dockworkers bustling about their business. He felt a pang of sadness creep over him, as he saw himself being pulled further away from his family and homeland. He sat motionless, in silence, gazing out, until the thin line separating the sea from the land sank beneath the ocean. Reaching in his pocket for his white handkerchief, he caught the beginning of a teardrop.


His home for the next month would be at sea, and the dangers of journey were many. Sometimes vessels would get lost, never to be found again, and the chances of capsizing in a heavy storm were great. There was no telling how the temperament of the winds or the sea would behave; only nature could determine their course.

Ibrahim gathered his thoughts as the billowing sails flapped mercilessly, jolting him back to reality. Turning his gaze and looking around him, he noticed that some of the passengers had made friends with each other, and were busy engaging themselves in their life stories. Others were nodding off to sleep, having propped their bundle of clothing behind their heads. A few were sharing their snacks around, whilst at the far end, a handful of men remained standing, their bodies swaying from side to side as they leaned heavily into the railing, fixated in their own thoughts. He made friends with a man called Mr Adamji Noorbhai, the two became firm allies, it was a bond that lasted a life time.

The meals consisted of fish that were caught on a daily basis and an evening supper of boiled rice. On days when fish was unavailable, a bowl of boiled ‘dhaal’ (lentils) was served, and sometimes Dates were provided as a treat. Water was stored in make shift tanks, and was utilized for cooking, drinking and washing. Sometimes the slightly unhygienic conditions gave rise to stomach infections and other illnesses. The medical provisions were minimum.

Ibrahim sat quietly watching the dark blue water of the sea that reflected the deep turquoise skies with thinning clouds trailing into each other making pictures that told a story. His tired eyes focused beyond, on the thin line separating the sea from the land, he watched as it grew higher and wider, rising a little at a time from behind the sea, until he saw no more but a lighthouse and the gray stone wall above him.









Please read this link for ancient history of India
http://www.gatewayforindia.com/history/british_history3.htm






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PHOTOS
1) Seth Ibrahim Karimbux
2) Ambala- Map of Punjab
4) The Trunk Road, Ambala
5) A Dhow
6) Sea Routes from India