CHAPTER 5 - THE GREAT TREK

The mammoth brown and white snake pulled itself up the Great Rift Valley, twisting and curling itself around the slopes, before zigzagging majestically to its' descent. Noisily it rumbled along as it made contact with the hard stony surface beneath. Its' long curvy trail begun to unravel gradually as it shifted from the plateau onto the plains of Africas' virgin wilderness.

The tiny African children, away in the distance, rubbed their huge beautiful eyes with their chubby little hands, jumping up and down in amazement. They squinted, as the the sun shone brightly, not daring to look away for fear of missing even a second of this curious affair. "Who were these strange, pale people entering our land, what were they coming to do, where did they suddenly spring up from and what funny clothes were they wearing?" Elegant Maasai women adorned in jewelry, watched in contemplation and bewilderment. From time to time, they nervously glanced up at their men, sending telepathic messages in need of an answer. The morans stood high with one leg perched against the other, perfectly straight, their long spears held dauntlessly, pointing to the skies, not a muscle twitched. The wind howled fiercely snatching up the land ubiquitously into the air, forcefully hurling the thick ochre smoke towards them. The small clan shut tight their watery eyes and turned away from the dust-clouds; leaving behind a trail laden with footprints that became lighter and softer, until they vanished far beyond the horizon. The hills that once echoed the musical laughter of children, stood somberly alone and naked against the darkened backdrop of the sky.


The land of new opportunities had bared opened its' arms, and the Boer settlers were trekking their way in ox-wagons across the highlands. Nakuru was a rest stop, where they camped for the night before continuing onward to their farmlands. Some had branched off to Solai, Rongai or Subukia, others to Njoro, but most were travelling further to Eldoret, Kitale, Molo, Kericho and other places. Their departure from Nairobi had been significantly delayed as British officials were unable to cope with the over whelming land applications. The settlers had to wait at length, at a makeshift campsite near the edge of Nairobi that acquired the pseudo name of ‘Tentfontein'. Grogan built a house on the very site and much later the area was named Chiromo, as it stands today.




They had driven their ox-wagons from Nairobi, having sailed to Mombasa from South Africa. Some carried only the bare necessities and others came with wooden crates and hard-cased trunks filled with clothing, pots, pans, crockery, bedding and various tools. The train station in Mombasa was bustling with activity. Porters were everywhere, loading the massive wagons together with all the luggage onto the train as families stood around, waiting to board the iron snake. Some of the British government officials supervised the huge task, together with the Boer men who were dressed in safari jackets, trousers, ankle boots and felt-brimmed hats to shade their burnt sun-withered faces; they could be seen removing their hats from time to time, wiping the sweat off their foreheads. Some of the men wore topis, puttees, shorts and boots. Women waited under their umbrellas, assuring their restless children, that soon they would be journeying on the exciting choo-choo train. The women looked identical with their white bonnets that flopped around their faces and banded scarves fashioned neatly around their necks. Their once pristine, puffed-sleeve blouses were showing signs of their voyage, long skirts danced in tune to the breeze as they stood under the hot African sun. Little girls dressed in loose fitted smocks, worn over long sleeved tops, played happily amongst themselves, shielded from the strong sun by their wide brimmed hats. Boys watched the activity with curiosity as they kicked up the dust onto each other, much to their mothers disapproval. Their Dutch and German roots clearly brought a piece of Europe to the African continent. They came in droves to carve the land of Africa that eventually became their homestead. They were true pioneers in the history of Kenya.





Nakuru quickly became an engine changing station for trains that journeyed through, and was also a divisional head quarters. By 1902, it had established a customs post for goods coming in from Uganda. Naivasha remained a headquarter for Ugandas' Eastern Province. Nakuru was officially declared a township in 1904.

Ibrahim by then, knew well the land of Nakuru, Nairobi and some of its'neighboring areas. He made the route so often, he could have walked it blindfolded. All those days spent alone, were not wasted. Being adventurous, he took himself on short expeditions whenever an opportunity arose. At times, his friend, Adamji Noorbhai, came down from Baringo, and they would accompany each other to Nairobi. He had befriended many of the pioneering Europeans, Africans and Asians, and identified closely with everyone. He continued his humanitarian ways, providing randomly to people, either in the way of money or food. 'This', he said, 'kept him close to God and his family and was a reminder of his own circumstances when he first set foot in Africa'. He was quoted to have said, that he found the people of Africa friendly, kind and peaceful, but in the early days, they were timid of the odd looking foreigners, and would take off in the opposite direction.

He had enough capital by this time to invest in a much needed ox-cart transport business. It was the only mode of transport, after the porters and before the railways. He established it gradually, until he had a sufficient number of carts in operation. Employing several local men, he began sourcing his merchandise from Mombasa initially, and consequently branched out to Eldoret, Baringo, Kisumu and other places. The city of Kisumu was formerly called Port Florence and was part of Uganda until 1902, when the border between Kenya and Uganda was adjusted. Lake Victoria is bordered by Uganda and Tanzania, (formerly known as Tanganyika), and is the second largest, fresh water lake in the world.

One of his first European customers was ‘The Rt. Hon. Hugh Cholmondeley’, better known as ‘Lord Delamere’. Lord Delamere was one of the earliest European settlers and one of the Colony's most famous figures. Leaving his vast estate in England with a caravan of 200 camels and 100 porters, he settled on farmland in Njoro initially. By 1903, Lord Delamere owned vast farming lands comprising of sheep, cattle, wheat and maize as well as lumbar and flour mills, he acquired 400 sq kms of land on the lower slopes of the Mau Escarpment, followed by two hundred more at Soysambu, both of which eventually settled some 200 or more English settler families who made Nakuru their country capital. In the end, he owned titles to 145,000 acres of land. Lord Delamere was the leader of the European community, a mentor for the Governors and had been an architect and director in the policy making of Kenya Colony. One of the policies implemented by him, was the governing of Kenya through its' European residents.

Lord Delamere often required building materials and other rations for his vast estates, and frequented Ibrahim from time to time. They struck up a friendship later, and consequently, he became a regular customer. We were told that he had a hot temper, but at the same time, was also compassionate and had helped many people, regardless of race. Delamere was adventurous at heart and known as being accident prone; he was attacked by a lion once and miraculously survived the ordeal. As children, we insisted on hearing the story over and over again, and never tired of it really! The friendship continued through the generations of both families, right until my father, Mohamed Karimbux and Hugh Cholmondeley, 5th Baron Delamere.

We have vivid memories of visiting his home as children and one room in particular stood out from the rest. The room showcased an enormous train track that he had fashioned with meticulous landscaping, it was every child's fantasy and wishful thinking to somehow magically shrink, and be part of the beautiful world he had created. The trains, complete with engines that blew smoke through their funnels, passenger sleeping cars, dining cars fitted out with dining tables covered in white tablecloths, each holding a lamp, freight wagons and trucks and finally the guard's van. At great speed, it ran through tunnels channeled in the many hills and passed by a variety of vegetation, signs, buildings, toy people and other features, it was simply magnificent and was certainly every child's eye candy.




Farmland owned by the early settlers


In the mean time, Ibrahim had made a close friend in a Mr Valji Bhanji, a gentleman who originated from Kutch, India, who arrived in Mombasa in 1898. Initiating his business in Mombasa, he sold matches and tobacco and quickly progressed into successfully running a number of import-export businesses around Kenya and Uganda. In the early 1900's they agreed on a business proposal whereby, Valji provisioned the merchandise and Ibrahim commissioned them.


A few years later, Valji opened a branch of his business in Nakuru on the only main road that ran through it. The shop also served as a rest stop for tired travellers who were given a decent meal and accommodated, at no cost by Ibrahim. Valji himself, lived in a large house named, 'Leven House' located by the stairs of the Old Port in Mombasa. Valji passed away at the age of sixty three years old, after his businesses took an unexpected turn for the worse. Ibrahim had lost his very close and dear friend, a business partner and a gentleman who had become like a brother to him.



Mr Valji Bhanji





Employees outside Mr Valjis shop. Ibrahim seated 3rd from right.



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Ibrahim, seated at the extreme right with Mr Valji Bhanji 2nd from left, some years later

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The land of Kenya would experience a significant shift with this great achievement that took shape and was noted down as an important development in its' history.

CHAPTER 4 - NAKURU AND THE UGANDA RAILWAY

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Map of Kenya with Nakuru located below the equator ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------





Nakuru borrowed its’ name from the Maasai word, ‘Nakurro’ meaning 'dusty place'. It came into existence during the thrust of the Kenya-Ugandan Railway. Nakuru is sandwiched between Lake Nakuru to the south and Menengai crater, an extinct volcano on the northern side of the town, that scales to a height of 2,490 m. It is the second largest surviving crater in the world with a surface area of 90 sq km. Interestingly enough, in the 19th century it was the site of a bloody battle between different Masai clans vying for the pastures of the Rift Valley slopes and Naivasha. The Ilaikipiak morans were defeated by their southern neighbors, the Ilpurko Masai, who reputedly threw the former over the crater edge. According to the legend, the fumaroles rising from the crater beds are the souls of the vanquished seeking to find the way to heaven. The Maa word, ‘Menenga’ means ‘the dead.’








Further to the North East of the town is Bahati Escarpment that forms the western fringe of the Abedare Escarpment. Lake Nakuru National Park lies close to Nakuru town and was established in 1961. It started off small, only encompassing the famous lake and the surrounding mountainous vicinity. The lake was encircled by swampy land followed by savanna. Lake Nakuru is one of the Rift Valley soda lakes and is famous for its' vast numbers of flamingos and wild animals. It is the fourth largest urban centre in Kenya and lies 1859 m above sea level.






The history of Nakuru can be traced back to prehistoric times. Archaeological discoveries were made in 1926 by Louis and Mary Leakey, about 4 km away, at the Hyrax Hill reserve. The excavations found evidence of seasonal settlements as far back as 3,000 years ago. The presence of beach sand indicated that Lake Nakuru may have extended to the base of the hill in former times, signifying that Hyrax Hill could very well have been a peninsular or an island. It acquired its' name during the early part of the 20th century because of the abundant hyraxes that dominated the rocky fissures of the hill. It is considered one of the country’s most important Neolithic excavation sites dating back from 1500 B.C. Nakuru also owes part of its' early growth due to Lord Delamere.

Ibrahim and his fellow travellers rose early the next morning after a not so restful night under the stars. With wild animals lurking in the dark of the night, sleep had totally escaped them. One of the men had been feasted upon by fleas and was having a hard time dealing with the outcome. Ibrahim stood up and stretched his thinning body and drew in the early morning air, it smelled sweet as he inhaled it into his lungs. The temperature was perfect and warmed up his cold bones gently, Ibrahim embraced the feeling.

Having reached his destination, an excitement filled his soul and a sudden surge of energy flowed through his body, he was ready to accomplish his life's dream. Nakuru was an entrepot in the centre of the Rift Valley. It was an unspoiled, windswept and arid plain without any villages or 'bomas', there was not a soul in sight.

Powdery light-brown soda-dust blew in clouds around the lake, filling his nostrils uncomfortably, he cupped his hand over his nose before turning his back on the wind. The ground was spongy beneath, as he stood still to admire the view. The glassy lake rippled with pink, mirrored the velvety deep-turquoise mountains that enveloped half way around. Flamingo hill towered handsomely on the other side. The colors were strikingly sensational. He imprinted the magnificent picture in his mind's eye and captured the moment forever. As they walked through the thicket, the flat topped yellow acacia trees stood grandly in the far distance. They talked amongst themselves, occasionally hearing a rustling amongst the shaggy overgrown grass, more often than not, it was a herd of antelope, trailing along side one another. On noticing the men, they would nervously flick their bushy tails, taking off in leaps and bounds in the opposite direction. ‘A land blessed with abounding beauty’, thought Ibrahim as he pondered over the marvels of Africa’s incredible nature. In the far distance, pelicans floated about with their long boat-like beaks, their heads bopping up and down every few seconds as they scooped up water.




Leopards inhabited the area and they had heard the distant howls of silver back jackals as they huddled together under their carts at night. Sometimes their hearts boomed uncontrollably in their ears as an adrenalin rush gushed through them whenever they heard a startling sound. The thought of facing these fierce beasts unarmed, made their skin crawl. Jiggers were still a menace and drinking water was closely guarded as it was drawn from rivers or streams. As they continued, a rich savannah stretched itself handsomely across the land, only interrupted by low lying hills scattered at intervals.

Ibrahim wished to remain relatively near the shores of the Lake as it was a landmark known to first time travellers. He needed a supply of fresh water within a few miles of him, and had secretly picked a location. He decided to branch off from the group and took himself back towards the lake.

Setting up shop under a small tent, he could be seen merchandising anything from foodstuff, small hardware goods and other useful items. Getting attacked by wild animals was one of the dangers that continued to poise a threat. He protected himself at night by using chopped thorn bushes that he encircled around his tent at night. When supplies ran low, he made the long hike back to Nairobi, sometimes journeying all the way to Mombasa, taking months before arriving back in Nakuru. And many times, when business was down, he would barter cloth or beads in exchange for food. In 1898, his mules died due to tsetse fly, and he traded cloth for some more.



These were some the most difficult, challenging and very long moments in Ibrahim's life; knowing his family were far so away did not help matters. Sometimes weeks could go by without him seeing a single soul, and the nights that followed, seemed even darker. The stillness echoed in silence, channeling an emptiness between his ears with a faint high pitched frequency that transcended him into an innermost journey of his soul. As time rolled by and with the railway line progressing towards Nakuru, the pristine wilderness was soon transformed and people started to trickle in.



The Lake when the Uganda Railway reached Nakuru

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The first major Indian influx in Kenya began in the late the 1800's with the building of the railway from Mombasa to Victoria Nyanza, (Lake Victoria), and again in the early 1900's when many more Indian settlers arrived. The construction of the railway required a skilled labour force of stonemasons, carpenters, builders, blacksmiths and casual labourers. The labourers were referred to by the British as 'coolies.' When the word entered the English language, it was a designated term used for a low-status class of workers; nowadays, a few people regard it as a racial epithet or a slur. Most of the recruited Indian workforce was done under contract of the Northwest Province of India by Mr A. M. Jivanjee. Ronald Preston was appointed to take charge of laying rails in 1897. Mr. George Whitehouse, Lieu-Col. J. H. Patterson and Mr. Ronald Preston were the engineers. Approximately 32,000 Indians and 2,600 Africans laboured on the construction of what came to be known as the 'Uganda Railway'. The first rail was laid in Mombasa on 30th May, 1896. In 1898, man-eating lions delayed the construction of the railway, killing eighty African and twenty-five Indian labourers and one British superintendent called C. H Ryall; hence the book, ‘Maneaters of Tsavo’ and 'Ghost and the Darkness'. The British had named one of the lions, ghost and the other darkness. J.H Patterson, a divisional engineer, managed to kill one of the lions, and three weeks later, he killed the second. These courageous and hardworking men who dug the land, bit by bit, mile for mile, sacrificed not only their families, and country, but themselves when they crossed the waters into Africa. Tough living conditions, lack of water and food, hard manual labor using picks or shovels, heavy loads of rocks that scared their nude hands, outbreaks of diseases such as malaria, black water fever, plague, dysentery, typhoid, small pox and septicemia were just a few of the ailments they endured. Long delays due to heavy rains that damaged earth works and caused derailment and locusts added to the suffering. After the completion of the 582 miles of the Lunatic line, about 7,000 Indians stayed on in Kenya, 2,500 had died and 6,000 were invalid.



Men working on the railway

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In the 1900’s, a vast number of European settlers arrived, mostly from South Africa, followed by the British, Australians, Germans and people of other European descent. Initially the first British to visit Kenya, did so as game hunters, and on seeing the abundance of wildlife, wide open spaces and beautiful landscape, applied for land. It seemed as a privileged life style, in comparison to the one they were accustomed to in Europe, after the Industrial revolution. Until the 1880's, the Rift Valley and the Aberdare highlands remained the heartland of the Maasai. The English negotiated a treaty with the Maasai laibon (chief, or spiritual leader) to begin work on the Mombasa-Uganda railway, which cut straight through the Maasai grazing lands. The British government hence invited the European settlers due to the massive expenses incurred constructing the railway, hoping to recover the phenomenal cost through extensive exports of settler cash crops. The allocation of land to the European farmers, meant that many tribes were driven out of their habitat and pastoral lands, and made to relocate in other designated areas. The first ‘Land Regulations’ of the East Africa Protectorate had been published in 1897, but it had not affected the country until 1899. The regulations were later replaced by the ‘Crowns Land Ordinance in 1902 where by granting freehold or leases of up to ninety-nine years.


By December 1901 the railway line from Mombasa to Kisumu had been completed. This eventually put an end to the massive slave trade in East Africa and jointly, to the caravan loads of slave porters that trekked their way for months on end carrying burdensome loads across the country, and into Uganda. Ivory though continued as a major trade commodity.







Nakuru Station when the Ugandan rail line first joined it in 1900


Royal Train in Nakuru Station



Nakuru Railway Station