Chapter 3 - The White Highlands

CHAPTER THREE





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The White Highlands of Kenya

Ibrahim's fascination with the African continent was imprinted in his soul; it was the beginning of a deep love affair with Kenya. Driven by a compelling energy and force that steered his mind into exploring the truth. He was a God fearing individual, who respected the gift of life in all humans and animals, upholding everyone in the same light. Criticism and humiliation of others was not part of his make up. Ibrahim's philosophy of life was simplistic and realistic. He felt that opportunities were born to those who loved and believed in themselves, and accepted who they were and not what society perceived them to be in a materialistic world. He emphasized that everybody had a right to develop themselves by acquiring a broad wealth of knowledge and skills, based on the willingness of making choices. Choices opened windows of opportunity, and opportunity meant moving forward. The step forward brought about change, something achievable only by having gone through a series of rich obstacle courses or stepping stones. He did not spend his time trying to find strategic ways of gaining self importance, this was something he shied away from. Ibrahim’s brain was like a ticking time machine, yet his focus and objectives were cemented from an early age.

Nairobi, at the time was not a place of great importance on the map; it was an austere place of endless swamps and water logged areas, quite impossible to survive on as it was unhealthy and gave rise to mosquitoes. Being aware that with the link of the up coming railway, it would all change. He wished for a solid start to secure his business, and Nairobi somehow did not appeal to him. The present site of Nairobi was selected as a stores depot, a shunting yard, (a place where trains are shifted from one track to another), and later it became a camping ground for the thousands of Indian laborers working on the railway, and a number of British colonials. When Ibrahim first came to Nairobi, it had next to no dwellings, however as years rolled by, there were some tin shacks, tents and structures built of mud.

The British wanted control of the Bugandan Kingdom, (Uganda), particularly because it would open a door to the fertile Buganda plateau that lay immediately north of Lake Victoria, (which was inhabited by three million people already), and had a much greater potential for economic development. Buganda was the most powerful central African regime. Building the Ugandan railway line from Kenya’s coast, Mombasa, to Western Kenya, would therefore enable them to gain control and access to Buganda.

The colonial government invested £6.5 million from English Tax Payers money to build the railway. This did not go without condemnation by the British public. In order to generate revenue for the government and justify the railway cost, Sir Charles Elliot, the Commissioner at the time, decided that Europeans would farm the lands close to the railway. British authorities, one of who was Lord Delamere, hoped these settlers would develop a modern economic sector. The highlands combined a pleasant climate and was thought as good quality land therefore being ideal for growing a variety of cash crops. In 1901, certain highland areas of the East Africa Protectorate were reserved for European settlement only, hence the title, ‘The White Highlands’. Indians were allowed to settle in the low-lying areas near Lake Victoria and along the coastal strip, and the local inhabitants, mainly Kikuyu and Maasai were forced out and relocated on certain reserves.

Originally, the people of Kenya came from three different groups; Bantu, Nilotes and Cushites. Nomadic Cushitic tribes from Ethiopia made their way onto Kenyan soil back near 2000 BC, and were actually the first group of people to arrive in Kenya. A second group followed around 1000 BC and occupied much of central Kenya. The rest of the ancestors of the country's medley of tribes arrived from all over the continent between 500 BC and AD 500. The Bantu-speaking people (such as the Gusii, Kikuyu, Akamba and Meru) arrived from West Africa while the Nilotic speakers (Maasai, Luo, Samburu and Turkana) came from the Nile Valley in southern Sudan, with the Luo and Maasai tribes settling around the rift valley region, although later the Luo settled around Lake Victoria. With the arrival of the Bantu and Nilotes, the Cushites were dispersed into different parts of the country. Many of them lived in semi arid and arid areas of the country. Unlike the Bantu, they do not farm at all. They are cattle herders instead. Most of their tribes include Borana, Burji, El Molo, Orma, Somali and Rendile.

Ibrahim did not have a doubt in his mind that Nairobi, in good time, would be an ideal business location, but his mind projected to Nakuru. Foreseeing that inevitably it would develop into a strong central business area, he felt compelled to start his new life there. Some of the Europeans, mainly Boers from South African, had already settled in the highlands, and others were continuing to migrate in caravan loads. Indians, British, Jews, Greeks, Germans and Italians would also follow in the near future. Ibrahim sensed a great magnetism towards Nakuru, it most definitely felt right for him. Nakuru's future expansion would demand building materials, construction tools and other necessary supplies. However, he was met with the realization that he had no capital and needed to figure out a worthy and feasible business plan.

He approached a few of the traders with his proposition, issuing a bold statement by offering to market some of their supplies, on a commission bases in Nakuru. He assured them that it would, undoubtedly promote their business prospects. Not everyone took kindly to his suggestion, but the few that did, could see valuable insight in the man. Their business returns were very slow and unpredictable as it had been an uphill struggle for most. By turning over their merchandise, unquestionably it could only help to improve their profit margin.

Having his supplies at hand, in addition to a couple of notebooks, one for accounting purposes, and another as a small diary, some tinned food, sugar, tea, a few medical supplies, and a ration of drinking water, he proceeded to prepare his donkey for the journey. Feeling very isolated and a little apprehensive, he prayed before heading out. He thought of his family in India, wondering how they were, as he had not sent any word back to them, he prayed for their safety too.

Having had a late start from Nairobi, he left without further delay, heading north. The onset of his journey took him through Fort Smith, named after Captain Eric Smith who ran his station from there, (It is presently called Kikuyu). European traders were already established there, one lady, of Irish decent, called Mary Walsh, was only too well known for her hot temperament. A red-haired woman whose choice of weapon was a whip that she liberally used with great force, should anyone happen to cross her path. She sent many a man hollering, rubbing their buttocks and vowing never to challenge her again. Ibrahim had heard stories about her, saying she had earned herself the title 'Bibi Kiboko', a Swahili word meaning, a stick intended for purposes of caning. At the same time, a Dr Boedeker and his wife, who had travelled from Scotland, were also known to early pioneers as being one of the first Europeans to have settled in the rift valley area. The Boedekers built a house in Naivasha that, at a later stage, became the famous half way point for travellers, when it was turned into a famous restaurant and bar called the 'Bell Inn'. Delicious home made meals, breads and pastries could be found there, the best known in the whole of the country. Mrs Boedeker had a reputation for being an extremely hardworking, enterprising and worthy lady.

Ibrahim's journey led him to a rolling green countryside resembling an idyllic English country scene with its rich green foliage and tiny hills, it was absolutely picturesque. Continuing on in the interior, he entered a dark dense forest of towering cyprus trees, the ground beneath was soft and swampy. On either side of him, endless labyrinths ran in and out of the spaces between the trees, eerily not a single ray of light was visible when he looked through. The cold chilly air hit him in an unfriendly manner, enveloping his whole body before penetrating through to his bones. His body crawled in goose bumps, and he felt every hair pricking from underneath his clothing, an icy shiver ran up his spine before he drew his coat tightly around him. With one hand leading the donkey, he quickened his pace to generate body heat. Fascinated again at the remarkable contrast of this journey to the last, he never imagined so many geographical changes taking place at such short intervals. He was still in danger of leopards, lions, rhino and jackals that roamed freely in the area.

The light changed and suddenly the forest came to life with a lively chorus of birds, chirping frantically from their nests, beckoning to their mates. As the sun floated down, hues of fiery crimson and amber painted the sky, catching the forest with it's warm glow. Breaking his journey for the night, Ibrahim led his donkey to a small stream nearby before preparing a fire. As he lay exhausted on his woven mat, the dark canopy looked down upon him, dazzling him with clusters of jewels sweeping through the heavens.

At the first break of light, Ibrahim rose and after praying, he breakfasted on a tin of fruit, before departing the boundaries of Kijabe, (a place meaning ‘windy place’, in Maa), heading towards the crude and jagged plateau of the Rift Valley Escarpment.

The highlands lie above 1,200 metres in altitude and the plateau is cut north and south by a huge gash, which is the formation of what is called The Great Rift Valley; a formation that is one of the dominating features of Kenya, it is simply breath taking. Africa's Great Rift Valley is a 1,400-metre fissure in the earth's crust, stretching from Lebanon to Mozambique. One of its most dramatic sections slices through East Africa, dividing Kenya into two segments; the Mau Escarpment to the west and the Aberdare Range to the east. The valley itself is 50 to 130 km wide, and its floor rises from about 450 metres in the north around Lake Turkana (previously called Lake Rudolf) to over 2,100 metres at Lake Naivasha where it begins to descend. A chain of shallow lakes separated by extinct volcanoes occupies the floor of the Rift Valley. Lake Naivasha is the largest of these; the others include Lakes Elementaita, Nakuru, Bogoria, Baringo and Magadi. The Rift Valley was formed when violent subterranean forces split the earth's crust. These forces caused huge chunks of the crust to sink between parallel fault lines, which in turn, forced up molten rock in volcanic eruptions, a process termed as rifting.






No sooner had Ibrahim entered the escarpment, he was stunned by what lay in front of him. His eyes soaked in the most powerful sight he had seen. It felt as if the ground had escaped from under him and the scenery had taken a huge plunge to the bottom of the earth. The abundant plain stretched itself generously beyond the horizon. Tinges of deep emerald and mottled browns and ochre splashed across nature’s lush carpet. Mesmerized, Ibrahim stood silently for a few moments trying to take in everything. An intense emotion crept through him, touching his soul deeply, he had seen a piece of heaven on earth, and wanted badly to share this beautiful moment with his wife.







The escarpment brought with it many physical and mental challenges, for some it was intimidating and threatening and their journey came to end there. The ground was dangerously steep and covered with rocks and thick vegetation that obstructed the way. He had to chop his way through the wilderness that lay untouched. Following the famous footsteps of the many explorers, missionaries and travellers before him, he sensed an appreciation towards their treacherous and life threatening mission, and admired their courage and enthusiasm. Ibrahim had relieved the donkey of some of its' load, as it was not accustomed to such precarious pathways. Higher up, loose boulders sometimes came crashing down on top of travellers, and at certain points, the track gave little room. The descent down posed many risks, being more vertically inclined, it required extreme caution and concentration to maneuver oneself safely across.





Italian prisoners of war built the Nakuru, Nairobi highway at a later stage. Tucked away in the corner of the escarpment was a quaint and most beautiful church. As a child, driving passed it, I would inform my father that I would get married there!





Ibrahim looked beyond to where Mt Longonot lay most splendidly on the rift valley floor. A volcanic mountain originally named ‘Oloonongo’t’ by the Maasai, meaning mountain of many spurs, rising up to 2,776 metres and bearing beautiful V-shaped valleys and ridges covered in forest. The surrounding land was a result of the rifting. It stood there towering over the Ol Karia hills.









Not far off in the distance, the shimmering waters of Lake Naivasha glistened as the sun reflected of its' surface. The beautiful freshwater lake, fringed by thick papyrus lay on the floor of the valley. Between 1937 and 1950 the lake was used as a landing place for plane passengers destined for Nairobi, who would then board a bus to Nairobi. Being that the lake holds freshwater, the surrounding soil is very fertile, and many of the early settlers farmed mainly fruit and vegetables around the shores. It was christened Lake Nai’posha by the Maasai, meaning rough water. (The British actually misspelt the name, as they did with other names, although sometimes, it was changed because of pronunciation difficulties).








Ibrahim took a moment to observe the feathery acacia trees with their wide spreading branches and flat tops. (Also called yellow fever trees, because early explorers and colonialists who usually slept near the trees broke out in a fever; and presumed that the trees were to blame, when in fact, it was malaria). He feasted his eyes on a great number of giraffe chewing the foliage, camouflaged perfectly amongst the light and shade of the branches. Black and white colobus monkeys swung energetically from branch to branch, their whisk-like tails sweeping through the air as they flung themselves with such unerring precision. A choir of hippos grunted abrasively sending him swift messages that he should not linger around longer than necessary.




He crossed paths with a group of English travellers who had thirty to fifty porters, heavily burdened with loads of ivory, hides, guns and food. Their donkeys trailed behind carrying water, and the remainder were ridden by a couple of men. They stopped and chatted, exchanging notes of their journey. The caravan of travellers were heading off to the next camp site. Camp sites were positioned along some routes, as were stations or forts. In total, 35 stations were located between Mombasa and Uganda, but these were open only to officials and European travellers.

Tribal warfares were many, and people were advised to respect any local tribesmen that they happened to come across. Ibrahim did encounter a few groups of local people, but they seemed unaffected by his presence.

Tiring greatly, he stopped to rest and enjoy the land. A small range of deep purple hills jutted out prominently against the sky line, forming a silhouette resembling a man's rested head that clearly projected an exaggerated long nose; it popularly adapted the title of,'Delamere's Nose.'



On reaching Gilgil, he met another group of people travelling to Nakuru; they were Indian transporters, who invited Ibrahim to join them for the last leg of the journey.
During World War One, in March 1947, the British set up an internment camp for Jewish prisoners of war who were members of the Irgun and Lehi Jewish underground organizations that had been deported from Palestine. The ‘Happy Valley’ set also lived in Gilgil, just north of Lake Naivasha. The elite social group became notorious for scandals of drug use and promiscuous sexual encounters.


Walking away from Gilgil, Lake Elementaita, a soda lake, (named ‘Muteita’ by the Maasai, another variation to its' spelling is Elementeita), lay in the eastern limb of East Africa's Great Rift Valley, about 120 km northwest of Nairobi. The lake was filled with flamingoes, Great White Pelicans and Great Crested Grebes. They viewed a variety of game from zebra, gazelle, eland and families of warthog that were abundant. Finally, they proceeded to Nakuru, thoroughly shattered, but looking forward to a journey's end.








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Chapter 2 - An African Dream

As Ibrahim heaved himself out of the dhow, he paused briefly whilst regaining a sense of balance as the apparent stillness of the ground beneath him, took a moment's getting used to. He placed his hand on the small of his back, leaning heavily against it, the last hour of the journey had been a rough one. The velvety, deep cerulean sky caught his eye and he broke out into a smile, silently approving mother nature's wise choice of palette. On reaching dry land, he stood looking onto his new surroundings with intrigue, under the cooling shade of some coconut palms, the fresh sea breeze brought a rustling of palm fronds that whispered to his ears the secrets of yesteryear.






Kenya's deep history, Islamic influence and Swahili culture begun in Mombasa, long before the arrival of the Europeans and Indians. It was initially inhabited mainly by the Mijikenda people who were a Bantu speaking tribe, and the Masai who lived Inland and had the vast majority of control over the land. The Arab and Persian traders came as early as the 11th century. The original name was 'Manbasa' an Arabic word, yet the Swahilis called it ‘Kisiwa Cha Mvita’, meaning, 'Island of war',indicating the many changes in the ownership of this city. By the time of Ibrahim's arrival, Kenya was called, British East African Protectorate by the British colonialists. Mombasa remained the capital city until 1907.

The Arab control was tied up very much with the ivory and slave trades. It was due to the early explorers like Stanley, Livingston and others, that the slave trade was exposed to Britain and other countries, as they strongly opposed it and were absolutely disgusted by the Arabs and Persians. Although by 1875, a special mission, headed by the Governor of Bombay, Sir Bartle Frere, coerced the Sultan into signing a treaty that prohibited the export of slaves from the Sultan's dominions to mainland Africa.

The Chinese visited in 1417 and settled along the coastline for a short period, as did people from Malaya and Baluchistan. By the 15th century it adapted the Swahili culture and Islamic faith, and became the first trade centre out of Africa. Swahili was a word given by the Arabs, meaning'coast' The Arabs and Persians initially brought in cloth, salt, beads, spices, wire and brass items to trade. It was known the ‘Centre of the Spice Trade.’

Vasco da Gama, a Portuguese explorer was the first known European to reach Mombasa in 1498. It is believed that he named the nearby coastal town of Malindi after his wife, ‘Melind’. The Arabs turned it into a Sultanate in 1502, only to be attacked by the Portuguese in 1505 and for the next 200 years, the Arabs and Portuguese battled over winning control. By 1593, the Portuguese took over with a brutal colonial rule and Mombasa became the centre of Portuguese power.



They built a huge fortress on the edge of a coral ridge, overlooking the entrance to the Old Port of Mombasa, to protect their trade route to India and their interests in East Africa. Using masons from the Indian colony of Goa, and some of the local inhabitants from Malindi. Built with lookout towers at every limb, and small arched openings all the way around, on which rested massive cannons. Cannons were surrounding the fort on both the outside and inside of the grounds. Gaining entrance through two heavy wooden doors, enforced with steel bars, opened out to a courtyard. To one extreme side, divided by a vast derelict wall, stood a well-secured iron gate leading down to a long flight of steep stone steps. A place that no soul would choose to venture, not even a passerby. It was there, in the depth of the morbid dungeons, that prisoners and slaves were confined, under the most harsh and unimaginable conditions. Far away from everyday life, cramped together in a dark space that reeked of faeces and putrefied corpses. Exposed to continuously wet and damp conditions, due to the deep waters of the ocean that surrounded the walls. They were beaten and tortured in the most horrendous ways, sometimes so brutally that they died. Having no idea how long their imprisonment would last, they sat there in hope,waiting and praying. Their fate was in the hands of their captivators, but needless to say, many never surfaced to see the outside world again.



An Italian architect called, Giovanni Battista Cairati, designed Fort Jesus. He died just before its completion. The fortress was dedicated and named "Fortaleza de Jesus de Mombaça" by Mateus de Mendes de Vasconcelos (a captain of the Malindi coast). Mombasa became Portugal’s main trading centre along the East Coast of Africa.
























The fort was completed in 1593, becoming the first and only government prison in the East Africa Protectorate in 1895. A plaque presented by the Oman embassy now stands there, displaying some historical dates.





For close to four decades and thereafter, Portuguese dominance was unchallenged until 16 August 1631. Relations between the Portuguese and the Sultan of Mombasa began to deteriorate after the departure of the first captain Mateus de Mendes de Vasconcelos.

The Sultan who succeeded him, (originally called, Muhammad Yusi and educated in Goa, was baptized as Dom Jeronimo Chingulia), entered the fort and took the Portuguese by surprise, killing the Portuguese captain, Pedro Leitão de Gamboa, and massacring the whole Portuguese population of Mombasa (45 men, 35 women and 70 children). A Portuguese expedition was sent from Goa to recapture the fort, but after two months of siege (10 January 1632-19 March 1632) they abandoned the enterprise. The Portuguese did recapture it back in 1728. In April 1729, the inhabitants of Mombasa revolted against the Portuguese and put under siege the garrison that was forced to surrender on 26 November 1729.

Not until the start of British anti-slave trade activities in East Africa, was European influence reasserted in the region. In 1822 the Sultan of Oman, Sayyid Said, claimed control of the Swahili dynasties along the coast but was resisted by the Swahili clans, who requested that Britain intervene. They did so claiming part of the coast,the British were generally content with their informal control over the area. However in the 1880s they were to find that their influence under the area would be severely challenged by the Germans. Pressure was put on the Sultan of Zanzibar to hand over control of his remaining East African lands to the British Company under Sir William Mackinnon. Sir William Mackinnon was an ageing Scotsman who began his career as a grocer's assistant, and later became the founder of a large steamship line. Some speculate that in general, he actually favoured the idea of buying out slaves from the Arabs, rather than forcing them to give up slavery. Lord Kitchener apparently had advised Salisbury to "get rid" of Mackinnon as early as 1888. By 1895 it was clear that the British East Africa Company could not continue and so sold its lands and buildings to the British Government.

In 1877 the Sultan offered a concession of administration to the British. Later in, 1886, the European colonial powers divided Africa between Germany and Britain as the main players. By 1895 Britain's protectorate was formed, officially naming it ‘British East African *Protectorate.’ And later in 1921, the protectorate became Kenya and was renamed,British Crown *Colony.


*Protectorates were territories where the local rulers could continue ruling domestically but they had ceded the foreign and defence aspects of their government to the British. In return, the British respected and were prepared to defend the ruler from foreign or internal threats.

*Colonies were those areas directly ruled by a governor on behalf of the British government and representing the Crown. The governor was responsible to the Colonial Office in London, although he usually had wide powers of discretion. These were the most common form of imperial control.




~Old Port Mombasa just before WW1~




~A main street in Mombasa before WW1~


By the time Ibrahim arrived, Mombasa had a population of about 24,719 people; 6,000 of them being of Asian origin, the rest were made up of Protectorate officials and their families, railway employees, missionaries, English businessmen and a couple of Germans and Greeks. Right up to 1907, anyone could come in through the port without immigration formalities or even a passport. There was no piped water, sewers or collection of rubbish; the roads were not properly made and most of the port was forest and mangroves. The forest often made the City vulnerable to wild animals and snakes. The town was undeveloped and gave rise to rats because of the poor sanitation,which in turn resulted in a few epidemics. There were a a small number Arabian dwellings, mud houses, typically with thatched roofs, and a handful of buildings. A few thatched pavilions doted the island that were utilized by the missionaries as a substitute for schools or churches. The British Administrator had his own house on the shore. A crude main road cut its way through the middle of the Old Port, called Ndia Kuu. Other than that, there were small foot paths around the trading area. Coconuts were cultivated as well as a small variety of fruit trees. The British Officers received their food rations when ever a ship sailed into Mombasa.






















The Afternoon sun was gleaming on the blue sea, and behind Ibrahim, a few dhows were entering the port steering carefully through the only gap in the coral reef barrier. He observed the rich influence of the Islamic culture around him. Prayer areas had been set up with woven grass mats under canopies of cloth. An area had been cordoned off for men to wash themselves before the prayers, with water drawn from a well, and stored in small containers. A few Arabs merchants were clasping rosaries made of seeds, reciting verses of the Koran silently. Many of the Swahili men had covered their heads with round flat topped hats,wearing 'Kanzus',(a long simple robe). And the few women had draped simple 'kangas'(rectangles of cloth, that now days are very colorful), over their heads.





















He noticed a few Indian men who seemed to have established themselves well, each with their own small trading posts. He curiously watched and wondered what brought them to Africa. Some European travellers had gathered by the traders, bargaining for their lunch of mangoes, dates and nuts. He approached the traders to exchange words with them, and was happy to see he was welcomed warmly. He learned that most of them had left India, some three to four years prior to him, coming mainly from Bombay, Kutch and Gujarat. One of the gentlemen, a Khoja who was of jovial nature, offered Ibrahim a ‘madavu’, (the green fruit of an unripe coconut, containing a refreshing and quenching liquid, tasting unique and different to that from a coconut. The white flesh inside is succulent and sweet), Ibrahim brought the madavu to his mouth where a hole had been carved out especially, he savoured it to the last drop as it soothed his throat, and nourished his burning thirst. The amiable Khoja man, much to Ibrahim’s surprise, offered him shelter and a small loan, despite Ibrahim’s reluctance. Ibrahim vowed to pay him back as soon as possible. He found the people as a very hospitable and friendly crowd, and took a liking to his new friends instantly.


He immediately experimented his hand at cooking an Indian condiment; unfortunately, his first attempt was a failure. Having no one to turn to, he asked the same man for another loan. This time Ibrahim was a total success, and he set about on foot, selling his product with in the trading centre. This was the beginning of his small business in Mombasa. Saving every penny possible, he opened a small make shift 'duka' (shop), selling fruit and other small items, becoming very skilled as time went by. In those days trading was done freely on a credit basis, and although it was to his advantage initially, it accumulated in debts later, and Ibrahim soon found himself short of money. Knowing he could not be profitable anytime soon, he concluded that a decision had to be made urgently. If at any time during this point, had Ibrahim been at all disillusioned, he would not have hesitated to discontinue his business as soon as the returning monsoons would turn around his journey,taking him back to his motherland.

Talking to a group of people, he learnt that they were planning to travel to Nairobi, a place 441 km away. After thinking about it, he immediately asked if he could join their party.

Nairobi was founded in 1899 as a railroad camp, on the site of a waterhole used by the pastoral Masai people, when plans for the Mombasa-Uganda railway line were under way. In 1905 it replaced Mombasa as the capital of the British East Africa Protectorate, when the British administration moved from Mombasa to Nairobi. The name "Nairobi" comes from the Masai phrase ‘Enkare Nyirobi’, meaning "the place of cool waters". With the discovery of 2.6 million years old Kenyanthropus Platyops at Lomekwi, near lake Turkana by a team lead by the Leakey family in 1972, Kenya cemented its claim as the original "Cradle of Mankind".

Nairobi lies south of the equator, having a high altitude of 1,680 m. During Kenya's colonial period, the city became a centre for the colony's coffee, tea and sisal industry.

As the railway line had not been constructed, they travelled by foot, donkey and cart. (The Uganda railway line was due to begin construction in the early months of 1896). Their journey took at least three to four weeks, travelling by day in the intense African sun, and camping under the cart at night. Wild animals could be seen and heard at night, their only protection was the campfire and their faith.






Crossing the thickly scrubbed grasslands, it was difficult to navigate themselves easily. Equipped with long sticks, crude machetes and limited tools, they struggled to clear their way through the over growth of thorn bushes and shrubs. The vicious thorns tore at their arms and legs savagely, leaving their bloodied marks distinctly all over their bodies. The sun's intense heat had slowed down their efforts with in a couple of days, and they were sunburned and exhausted from the high temperatures. Certain areas, along Samburu and Taru were like an oven, making it impossible for them to continue walking. All they could do was to break their journey, and crouch under the cart for some form of shade.


























The land was a combination of hilly and flat terrain. Each day brought with it a new challenge, and being isolated from any form of help, made their mission even more dangerous. The land was crawling with wild animals. Clean drinking water was very scarce to find after their departure from Mombasa. Their medical supplies were minimal,and in case of an emergency, there were no clinics or hospitals anywhere along the route. The pastoral Masai fiercely guarded their territory, and did not welcome any outsiders, the consequences could likely end in a loss of life. Their chances of getting infected with malaria were high, although they had a small supply of quinine and chewed on 'neem' sticks continuously. Neem is a tree that grows widely in India and is known for its abundant medicinal qualities, one of which is a prophylactic for malaria. Many poisonous snakes were lurking every where, and the chances of getting bitten were also high. Even minute insects, such as jiggers could do severe damage to somebody's foot, as infections and gangrene were very likely after extraction. These were just a few of the risks out of a great many that they were exposed to, but it was a choice that each man made willingly and consciously.





Guided by the sun, they headed towards their destination the best way they could. Many times, having to turn around and find alternate routes, as something obstructed them.
They journeyed through forests, savannahs and thorn bushes, and were amazed to see the vast diversity and the untamed spectacle of the landscape. Equally they were intoxicated by the beauty of the wild animals roaming freely everywhere. From the shy zebra, whose young habitually stood together in pairs, back to head, watching out for each other, to the towering giraffe, whose stride generated the rhythmic and elegant swaying of their necks. Elephant herds were a serious threat, especially nursing cows who charged viciously at anything that caught their eye. The perfectly disguised lions lurking in the tall yellowy grass, waiting patiently to pounce on their prey, had been known to have had a few travellers for their dinner.














Living off dried fruit, nuts, dried fish, rice, and occasionally a guinea fowl when luck was on their side, their diets lacked in nutrients. They collected dried twigs and fallen pieces of wood to light their camp fires at night, as they went along their journey. Water was carried in the carts for both the animals and themselves, breaking at any stream or river to refill, which was a rarity.

One night they woke up with a fright as one of the men suddenly began to yell frantically. Thinking it was a lion, they hurriedly armed themselves with machetes and took cover under the cart. Attempting to calm and silence the man who by this time, had started to perform what looked like a very odd dance routine. Thumping his feet and slapping his body and head, he began to strip his clothing in the middle of the bush. The men glared at the performance that had turned into a road show, and realized that there was something other than a lion troubling their companion. On further investigation, they discovered huge ants with generous pincers that had dug deep into the man's flesh. 'Siafu' or safari ants had attacked him whilst he was sleeping, and were clinging fast on to him, refusing to let go. They had to pull the ants off one by one as another tried to slap them with a cloth, it was not an easy task. He suffered the consequences, as he was left with the sores all over his body and the only way to disinfect them, was with salted water which must have stung him even more. That night, they had to move their camp to a different location.

They walked through Mackinnon, Voi, Tsavo, Mtito Ende, all the way to the Kapiti Plains and Fort Hall, (Machakos). Finally they followed Athi river where the game was abundantly seen wondering over the plains.

On reaching Nairobi,they were unrecognizable due to the dust from the red soil that had heavily caked them from head to toe. Their thorn tattered clothes hung in shreds off their frail bodies. Towards the end of their journey,everything had caught up with them, and they were absolutely exhausted, weak, sick and malnourished. One of the men had dysentery and was desperately ailing.

When their long journey did come to an end, they were overcome with relief and joy, it was an experience they would never forget for as long as they lived, and they would be certain to pass it onto the generations that followed.













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