Chapter 3 - The White Highlands

CHAPTER THREE





Clicking on the photos will enlarge them








The White Highlands of Kenya

Ibrahim's fascination with the African continent was imprinted in his soul; it was the beginning of a deep love affair with Kenya. Driven by a compelling energy and force that steered his mind into exploring the truth. He was a God fearing individual, who respected the gift of life in all humans and animals, upholding everyone in the same light. Criticism and humiliation of others was not part of his make up. Ibrahim's philosophy of life was simplistic and realistic. He felt that opportunities were born to those who loved and believed in themselves, and accepted who they were and not what society perceived them to be in a materialistic world. He emphasized that everybody had a right to develop themselves by acquiring a broad wealth of knowledge and skills, based on the willingness of making choices. Choices opened windows of opportunity, and opportunity meant moving forward. The step forward brought about change, something achievable only by having gone through a series of rich obstacle courses or stepping stones. He did not spend his time trying to find strategic ways of gaining self importance, this was something he shied away from. Ibrahim’s brain was like a ticking time machine, yet his focus and objectives were cemented from an early age.

Nairobi, at the time was not a place of great importance on the map; it was an austere place of endless swamps and water logged areas, quite impossible to survive on as it was unhealthy and gave rise to mosquitoes. Being aware that with the link of the up coming railway, it would all change. He wished for a solid start to secure his business, and Nairobi somehow did not appeal to him. The present site of Nairobi was selected as a stores depot, a shunting yard, (a place where trains are shifted from one track to another), and later it became a camping ground for the thousands of Indian laborers working on the railway, and a number of British colonials. When Ibrahim first came to Nairobi, it had next to no dwellings, however as years rolled by, there were some tin shacks, tents and structures built of mud.

The British wanted control of the Bugandan Kingdom, (Uganda), particularly because it would open a door to the fertile Buganda plateau that lay immediately north of Lake Victoria, (which was inhabited by three million people already), and had a much greater potential for economic development. Buganda was the most powerful central African regime. Building the Ugandan railway line from Kenya’s coast, Mombasa, to Western Kenya, would therefore enable them to gain control and access to Buganda.

The colonial government invested £6.5 million from English Tax Payers money to build the railway. This did not go without condemnation by the British public. In order to generate revenue for the government and justify the railway cost, Sir Charles Elliot, the Commissioner at the time, decided that Europeans would farm the lands close to the railway. British authorities, one of who was Lord Delamere, hoped these settlers would develop a modern economic sector. The highlands combined a pleasant climate and was thought as good quality land therefore being ideal for growing a variety of cash crops. In 1901, certain highland areas of the East Africa Protectorate were reserved for European settlement only, hence the title, ‘The White Highlands’. Indians were allowed to settle in the low-lying areas near Lake Victoria and along the coastal strip, and the local inhabitants, mainly Kikuyu and Maasai were forced out and relocated on certain reserves.

Originally, the people of Kenya came from three different groups; Bantu, Nilotes and Cushites. Nomadic Cushitic tribes from Ethiopia made their way onto Kenyan soil back near 2000 BC, and were actually the first group of people to arrive in Kenya. A second group followed around 1000 BC and occupied much of central Kenya. The rest of the ancestors of the country's medley of tribes arrived from all over the continent between 500 BC and AD 500. The Bantu-speaking people (such as the Gusii, Kikuyu, Akamba and Meru) arrived from West Africa while the Nilotic speakers (Maasai, Luo, Samburu and Turkana) came from the Nile Valley in southern Sudan, with the Luo and Maasai tribes settling around the rift valley region, although later the Luo settled around Lake Victoria. With the arrival of the Bantu and Nilotes, the Cushites were dispersed into different parts of the country. Many of them lived in semi arid and arid areas of the country. Unlike the Bantu, they do not farm at all. They are cattle herders instead. Most of their tribes include Borana, Burji, El Molo, Orma, Somali and Rendile.

Ibrahim did not have a doubt in his mind that Nairobi, in good time, would be an ideal business location, but his mind projected to Nakuru. Foreseeing that inevitably it would develop into a strong central business area, he felt compelled to start his new life there. Some of the Europeans, mainly Boers from South African, had already settled in the highlands, and others were continuing to migrate in caravan loads. Indians, British, Jews, Greeks, Germans and Italians would also follow in the near future. Ibrahim sensed a great magnetism towards Nakuru, it most definitely felt right for him. Nakuru's future expansion would demand building materials, construction tools and other necessary supplies. However, he was met with the realization that he had no capital and needed to figure out a worthy and feasible business plan.

He approached a few of the traders with his proposition, issuing a bold statement by offering to market some of their supplies, on a commission bases in Nakuru. He assured them that it would, undoubtedly promote their business prospects. Not everyone took kindly to his suggestion, but the few that did, could see valuable insight in the man. Their business returns were very slow and unpredictable as it had been an uphill struggle for most. By turning over their merchandise, unquestionably it could only help to improve their profit margin.

Having his supplies at hand, in addition to a couple of notebooks, one for accounting purposes, and another as a small diary, some tinned food, sugar, tea, a few medical supplies, and a ration of drinking water, he proceeded to prepare his donkey for the journey. Feeling very isolated and a little apprehensive, he prayed before heading out. He thought of his family in India, wondering how they were, as he had not sent any word back to them, he prayed for their safety too.

Having had a late start from Nairobi, he left without further delay, heading north. The onset of his journey took him through Fort Smith, named after Captain Eric Smith who ran his station from there, (It is presently called Kikuyu). European traders were already established there, one lady, of Irish decent, called Mary Walsh, was only too well known for her hot temperament. A red-haired woman whose choice of weapon was a whip that she liberally used with great force, should anyone happen to cross her path. She sent many a man hollering, rubbing their buttocks and vowing never to challenge her again. Ibrahim had heard stories about her, saying she had earned herself the title 'Bibi Kiboko', a Swahili word meaning, a stick intended for purposes of caning. At the same time, a Dr Boedeker and his wife, who had travelled from Scotland, were also known to early pioneers as being one of the first Europeans to have settled in the rift valley area. The Boedekers built a house in Naivasha that, at a later stage, became the famous half way point for travellers, when it was turned into a famous restaurant and bar called the 'Bell Inn'. Delicious home made meals, breads and pastries could be found there, the best known in the whole of the country. Mrs Boedeker had a reputation for being an extremely hardworking, enterprising and worthy lady.

Ibrahim's journey led him to a rolling green countryside resembling an idyllic English country scene with its rich green foliage and tiny hills, it was absolutely picturesque. Continuing on in the interior, he entered a dark dense forest of towering cyprus trees, the ground beneath was soft and swampy. On either side of him, endless labyrinths ran in and out of the spaces between the trees, eerily not a single ray of light was visible when he looked through. The cold chilly air hit him in an unfriendly manner, enveloping his whole body before penetrating through to his bones. His body crawled in goose bumps, and he felt every hair pricking from underneath his clothing, an icy shiver ran up his spine before he drew his coat tightly around him. With one hand leading the donkey, he quickened his pace to generate body heat. Fascinated again at the remarkable contrast of this journey to the last, he never imagined so many geographical changes taking place at such short intervals. He was still in danger of leopards, lions, rhino and jackals that roamed freely in the area.

The light changed and suddenly the forest came to life with a lively chorus of birds, chirping frantically from their nests, beckoning to their mates. As the sun floated down, hues of fiery crimson and amber painted the sky, catching the forest with it's warm glow. Breaking his journey for the night, Ibrahim led his donkey to a small stream nearby before preparing a fire. As he lay exhausted on his woven mat, the dark canopy looked down upon him, dazzling him with clusters of jewels sweeping through the heavens.

At the first break of light, Ibrahim rose and after praying, he breakfasted on a tin of fruit, before departing the boundaries of Kijabe, (a place meaning ‘windy place’, in Maa), heading towards the crude and jagged plateau of the Rift Valley Escarpment.

The highlands lie above 1,200 metres in altitude and the plateau is cut north and south by a huge gash, which is the formation of what is called The Great Rift Valley; a formation that is one of the dominating features of Kenya, it is simply breath taking. Africa's Great Rift Valley is a 1,400-metre fissure in the earth's crust, stretching from Lebanon to Mozambique. One of its most dramatic sections slices through East Africa, dividing Kenya into two segments; the Mau Escarpment to the west and the Aberdare Range to the east. The valley itself is 50 to 130 km wide, and its floor rises from about 450 metres in the north around Lake Turkana (previously called Lake Rudolf) to over 2,100 metres at Lake Naivasha where it begins to descend. A chain of shallow lakes separated by extinct volcanoes occupies the floor of the Rift Valley. Lake Naivasha is the largest of these; the others include Lakes Elementaita, Nakuru, Bogoria, Baringo and Magadi. The Rift Valley was formed when violent subterranean forces split the earth's crust. These forces caused huge chunks of the crust to sink between parallel fault lines, which in turn, forced up molten rock in volcanic eruptions, a process termed as rifting.






No sooner had Ibrahim entered the escarpment, he was stunned by what lay in front of him. His eyes soaked in the most powerful sight he had seen. It felt as if the ground had escaped from under him and the scenery had taken a huge plunge to the bottom of the earth. The abundant plain stretched itself generously beyond the horizon. Tinges of deep emerald and mottled browns and ochre splashed across nature’s lush carpet. Mesmerized, Ibrahim stood silently for a few moments trying to take in everything. An intense emotion crept through him, touching his soul deeply, he had seen a piece of heaven on earth, and wanted badly to share this beautiful moment with his wife.







The escarpment brought with it many physical and mental challenges, for some it was intimidating and threatening and their journey came to end there. The ground was dangerously steep and covered with rocks and thick vegetation that obstructed the way. He had to chop his way through the wilderness that lay untouched. Following the famous footsteps of the many explorers, missionaries and travellers before him, he sensed an appreciation towards their treacherous and life threatening mission, and admired their courage and enthusiasm. Ibrahim had relieved the donkey of some of its' load, as it was not accustomed to such precarious pathways. Higher up, loose boulders sometimes came crashing down on top of travellers, and at certain points, the track gave little room. The descent down posed many risks, being more vertically inclined, it required extreme caution and concentration to maneuver oneself safely across.





Italian prisoners of war built the Nakuru, Nairobi highway at a later stage. Tucked away in the corner of the escarpment was a quaint and most beautiful church. As a child, driving passed it, I would inform my father that I would get married there!





Ibrahim looked beyond to where Mt Longonot lay most splendidly on the rift valley floor. A volcanic mountain originally named ‘Oloonongo’t’ by the Maasai, meaning mountain of many spurs, rising up to 2,776 metres and bearing beautiful V-shaped valleys and ridges covered in forest. The surrounding land was a result of the rifting. It stood there towering over the Ol Karia hills.









Not far off in the distance, the shimmering waters of Lake Naivasha glistened as the sun reflected of its' surface. The beautiful freshwater lake, fringed by thick papyrus lay on the floor of the valley. Between 1937 and 1950 the lake was used as a landing place for plane passengers destined for Nairobi, who would then board a bus to Nairobi. Being that the lake holds freshwater, the surrounding soil is very fertile, and many of the early settlers farmed mainly fruit and vegetables around the shores. It was christened Lake Nai’posha by the Maasai, meaning rough water. (The British actually misspelt the name, as they did with other names, although sometimes, it was changed because of pronunciation difficulties).








Ibrahim took a moment to observe the feathery acacia trees with their wide spreading branches and flat tops. (Also called yellow fever trees, because early explorers and colonialists who usually slept near the trees broke out in a fever; and presumed that the trees were to blame, when in fact, it was malaria). He feasted his eyes on a great number of giraffe chewing the foliage, camouflaged perfectly amongst the light and shade of the branches. Black and white colobus monkeys swung energetically from branch to branch, their whisk-like tails sweeping through the air as they flung themselves with such unerring precision. A choir of hippos grunted abrasively sending him swift messages that he should not linger around longer than necessary.




He crossed paths with a group of English travellers who had thirty to fifty porters, heavily burdened with loads of ivory, hides, guns and food. Their donkeys trailed behind carrying water, and the remainder were ridden by a couple of men. They stopped and chatted, exchanging notes of their journey. The caravan of travellers were heading off to the next camp site. Camp sites were positioned along some routes, as were stations or forts. In total, 35 stations were located between Mombasa and Uganda, but these were open only to officials and European travellers.

Tribal warfares were many, and people were advised to respect any local tribesmen that they happened to come across. Ibrahim did encounter a few groups of local people, but they seemed unaffected by his presence.

Tiring greatly, he stopped to rest and enjoy the land. A small range of deep purple hills jutted out prominently against the sky line, forming a silhouette resembling a man's rested head that clearly projected an exaggerated long nose; it popularly adapted the title of,'Delamere's Nose.'



On reaching Gilgil, he met another group of people travelling to Nakuru; they were Indian transporters, who invited Ibrahim to join them for the last leg of the journey.
During World War One, in March 1947, the British set up an internment camp for Jewish prisoners of war who were members of the Irgun and Lehi Jewish underground organizations that had been deported from Palestine. The ‘Happy Valley’ set also lived in Gilgil, just north of Lake Naivasha. The elite social group became notorious for scandals of drug use and promiscuous sexual encounters.


Walking away from Gilgil, Lake Elementaita, a soda lake, (named ‘Muteita’ by the Maasai, another variation to its' spelling is Elementeita), lay in the eastern limb of East Africa's Great Rift Valley, about 120 km northwest of Nairobi. The lake was filled with flamingoes, Great White Pelicans and Great Crested Grebes. They viewed a variety of game from zebra, gazelle, eland and families of warthog that were abundant. Finally, they proceeded to Nakuru, thoroughly shattered, but looking forward to a journey's end.








_______________________________________________________________________________

Chapter 2 - An African Dream

As Ibrahim heaved himself out of the dhow, he paused briefly whilst regaining a sense of balance as the apparent stillness of the ground beneath him, took a moment's getting used to. He placed his hand on the small of his back, leaning heavily against it, the last hour of the journey had been a rough one. The velvety, deep cerulean sky caught his eye and he broke out into a smile, silently approving mother nature's wise choice of palette. On reaching dry land, he stood looking onto his new surroundings with intrigue, under the cooling shade of some coconut palms, the fresh sea breeze brought a rustling of palm fronds that whispered to his ears the secrets of yesteryear.






Kenya's deep history, Islamic influence and Swahili culture begun in Mombasa, long before the arrival of the Europeans and Indians. It was initially inhabited mainly by the Mijikenda people who were a Bantu speaking tribe, and the Masai who lived Inland and had the vast majority of control over the land. The Arab and Persian traders came as early as the 11th century. The original name was 'Manbasa' an Arabic word, yet the Swahilis called it ‘Kisiwa Cha Mvita’, meaning, 'Island of war',indicating the many changes in the ownership of this city. By the time of Ibrahim's arrival, Kenya was called, British East African Protectorate by the British colonialists. Mombasa remained the capital city until 1907.

The Arab control was tied up very much with the ivory and slave trades. It was due to the early explorers like Stanley, Livingston and others, that the slave trade was exposed to Britain and other countries, as they strongly opposed it and were absolutely disgusted by the Arabs and Persians. Although by 1875, a special mission, headed by the Governor of Bombay, Sir Bartle Frere, coerced the Sultan into signing a treaty that prohibited the export of slaves from the Sultan's dominions to mainland Africa.

The Chinese visited in 1417 and settled along the coastline for a short period, as did people from Malaya and Baluchistan. By the 15th century it adapted the Swahili culture and Islamic faith, and became the first trade centre out of Africa. Swahili was a word given by the Arabs, meaning'coast' The Arabs and Persians initially brought in cloth, salt, beads, spices, wire and brass items to trade. It was known the ‘Centre of the Spice Trade.’

Vasco da Gama, a Portuguese explorer was the first known European to reach Mombasa in 1498. It is believed that he named the nearby coastal town of Malindi after his wife, ‘Melind’. The Arabs turned it into a Sultanate in 1502, only to be attacked by the Portuguese in 1505 and for the next 200 years, the Arabs and Portuguese battled over winning control. By 1593, the Portuguese took over with a brutal colonial rule and Mombasa became the centre of Portuguese power.



They built a huge fortress on the edge of a coral ridge, overlooking the entrance to the Old Port of Mombasa, to protect their trade route to India and their interests in East Africa. Using masons from the Indian colony of Goa, and some of the local inhabitants from Malindi. Built with lookout towers at every limb, and small arched openings all the way around, on which rested massive cannons. Cannons were surrounding the fort on both the outside and inside of the grounds. Gaining entrance through two heavy wooden doors, enforced with steel bars, opened out to a courtyard. To one extreme side, divided by a vast derelict wall, stood a well-secured iron gate leading down to a long flight of steep stone steps. A place that no soul would choose to venture, not even a passerby. It was there, in the depth of the morbid dungeons, that prisoners and slaves were confined, under the most harsh and unimaginable conditions. Far away from everyday life, cramped together in a dark space that reeked of faeces and putrefied corpses. Exposed to continuously wet and damp conditions, due to the deep waters of the ocean that surrounded the walls. They were beaten and tortured in the most horrendous ways, sometimes so brutally that they died. Having no idea how long their imprisonment would last, they sat there in hope,waiting and praying. Their fate was in the hands of their captivators, but needless to say, many never surfaced to see the outside world again.



An Italian architect called, Giovanni Battista Cairati, designed Fort Jesus. He died just before its completion. The fortress was dedicated and named "Fortaleza de Jesus de Mombaça" by Mateus de Mendes de Vasconcelos (a captain of the Malindi coast). Mombasa became Portugal’s main trading centre along the East Coast of Africa.
























The fort was completed in 1593, becoming the first and only government prison in the East Africa Protectorate in 1895. A plaque presented by the Oman embassy now stands there, displaying some historical dates.





For close to four decades and thereafter, Portuguese dominance was unchallenged until 16 August 1631. Relations between the Portuguese and the Sultan of Mombasa began to deteriorate after the departure of the first captain Mateus de Mendes de Vasconcelos.

The Sultan who succeeded him, (originally called, Muhammad Yusi and educated in Goa, was baptized as Dom Jeronimo Chingulia), entered the fort and took the Portuguese by surprise, killing the Portuguese captain, Pedro Leitão de Gamboa, and massacring the whole Portuguese population of Mombasa (45 men, 35 women and 70 children). A Portuguese expedition was sent from Goa to recapture the fort, but after two months of siege (10 January 1632-19 March 1632) they abandoned the enterprise. The Portuguese did recapture it back in 1728. In April 1729, the inhabitants of Mombasa revolted against the Portuguese and put under siege the garrison that was forced to surrender on 26 November 1729.

Not until the start of British anti-slave trade activities in East Africa, was European influence reasserted in the region. In 1822 the Sultan of Oman, Sayyid Said, claimed control of the Swahili dynasties along the coast but was resisted by the Swahili clans, who requested that Britain intervene. They did so claiming part of the coast,the British were generally content with their informal control over the area. However in the 1880s they were to find that their influence under the area would be severely challenged by the Germans. Pressure was put on the Sultan of Zanzibar to hand over control of his remaining East African lands to the British Company under Sir William Mackinnon. Sir William Mackinnon was an ageing Scotsman who began his career as a grocer's assistant, and later became the founder of a large steamship line. Some speculate that in general, he actually favoured the idea of buying out slaves from the Arabs, rather than forcing them to give up slavery. Lord Kitchener apparently had advised Salisbury to "get rid" of Mackinnon as early as 1888. By 1895 it was clear that the British East Africa Company could not continue and so sold its lands and buildings to the British Government.

In 1877 the Sultan offered a concession of administration to the British. Later in, 1886, the European colonial powers divided Africa between Germany and Britain as the main players. By 1895 Britain's protectorate was formed, officially naming it ‘British East African *Protectorate.’ And later in 1921, the protectorate became Kenya and was renamed,British Crown *Colony.


*Protectorates were territories where the local rulers could continue ruling domestically but they had ceded the foreign and defence aspects of their government to the British. In return, the British respected and were prepared to defend the ruler from foreign or internal threats.

*Colonies were those areas directly ruled by a governor on behalf of the British government and representing the Crown. The governor was responsible to the Colonial Office in London, although he usually had wide powers of discretion. These were the most common form of imperial control.




~Old Port Mombasa just before WW1~




~A main street in Mombasa before WW1~


By the time Ibrahim arrived, Mombasa had a population of about 24,719 people; 6,000 of them being of Asian origin, the rest were made up of Protectorate officials and their families, railway employees, missionaries, English businessmen and a couple of Germans and Greeks. Right up to 1907, anyone could come in through the port without immigration formalities or even a passport. There was no piped water, sewers or collection of rubbish; the roads were not properly made and most of the port was forest and mangroves. The forest often made the City vulnerable to wild animals and snakes. The town was undeveloped and gave rise to rats because of the poor sanitation,which in turn resulted in a few epidemics. There were a a small number Arabian dwellings, mud houses, typically with thatched roofs, and a handful of buildings. A few thatched pavilions doted the island that were utilized by the missionaries as a substitute for schools or churches. The British Administrator had his own house on the shore. A crude main road cut its way through the middle of the Old Port, called Ndia Kuu. Other than that, there were small foot paths around the trading area. Coconuts were cultivated as well as a small variety of fruit trees. The British Officers received their food rations when ever a ship sailed into Mombasa.






















The Afternoon sun was gleaming on the blue sea, and behind Ibrahim, a few dhows were entering the port steering carefully through the only gap in the coral reef barrier. He observed the rich influence of the Islamic culture around him. Prayer areas had been set up with woven grass mats under canopies of cloth. An area had been cordoned off for men to wash themselves before the prayers, with water drawn from a well, and stored in small containers. A few Arabs merchants were clasping rosaries made of seeds, reciting verses of the Koran silently. Many of the Swahili men had covered their heads with round flat topped hats,wearing 'Kanzus',(a long simple robe). And the few women had draped simple 'kangas'(rectangles of cloth, that now days are very colorful), over their heads.





















He noticed a few Indian men who seemed to have established themselves well, each with their own small trading posts. He curiously watched and wondered what brought them to Africa. Some European travellers had gathered by the traders, bargaining for their lunch of mangoes, dates and nuts. He approached the traders to exchange words with them, and was happy to see he was welcomed warmly. He learned that most of them had left India, some three to four years prior to him, coming mainly from Bombay, Kutch and Gujarat. One of the gentlemen, a Khoja who was of jovial nature, offered Ibrahim a ‘madavu’, (the green fruit of an unripe coconut, containing a refreshing and quenching liquid, tasting unique and different to that from a coconut. The white flesh inside is succulent and sweet), Ibrahim brought the madavu to his mouth where a hole had been carved out especially, he savoured it to the last drop as it soothed his throat, and nourished his burning thirst. The amiable Khoja man, much to Ibrahim’s surprise, offered him shelter and a small loan, despite Ibrahim’s reluctance. Ibrahim vowed to pay him back as soon as possible. He found the people as a very hospitable and friendly crowd, and took a liking to his new friends instantly.


He immediately experimented his hand at cooking an Indian condiment; unfortunately, his first attempt was a failure. Having no one to turn to, he asked the same man for another loan. This time Ibrahim was a total success, and he set about on foot, selling his product with in the trading centre. This was the beginning of his small business in Mombasa. Saving every penny possible, he opened a small make shift 'duka' (shop), selling fruit and other small items, becoming very skilled as time went by. In those days trading was done freely on a credit basis, and although it was to his advantage initially, it accumulated in debts later, and Ibrahim soon found himself short of money. Knowing he could not be profitable anytime soon, he concluded that a decision had to be made urgently. If at any time during this point, had Ibrahim been at all disillusioned, he would not have hesitated to discontinue his business as soon as the returning monsoons would turn around his journey,taking him back to his motherland.

Talking to a group of people, he learnt that they were planning to travel to Nairobi, a place 441 km away. After thinking about it, he immediately asked if he could join their party.

Nairobi was founded in 1899 as a railroad camp, on the site of a waterhole used by the pastoral Masai people, when plans for the Mombasa-Uganda railway line were under way. In 1905 it replaced Mombasa as the capital of the British East Africa Protectorate, when the British administration moved from Mombasa to Nairobi. The name "Nairobi" comes from the Masai phrase ‘Enkare Nyirobi’, meaning "the place of cool waters". With the discovery of 2.6 million years old Kenyanthropus Platyops at Lomekwi, near lake Turkana by a team lead by the Leakey family in 1972, Kenya cemented its claim as the original "Cradle of Mankind".

Nairobi lies south of the equator, having a high altitude of 1,680 m. During Kenya's colonial period, the city became a centre for the colony's coffee, tea and sisal industry.

As the railway line had not been constructed, they travelled by foot, donkey and cart. (The Uganda railway line was due to begin construction in the early months of 1896). Their journey took at least three to four weeks, travelling by day in the intense African sun, and camping under the cart at night. Wild animals could be seen and heard at night, their only protection was the campfire and their faith.






Crossing the thickly scrubbed grasslands, it was difficult to navigate themselves easily. Equipped with long sticks, crude machetes and limited tools, they struggled to clear their way through the over growth of thorn bushes and shrubs. The vicious thorns tore at their arms and legs savagely, leaving their bloodied marks distinctly all over their bodies. The sun's intense heat had slowed down their efforts with in a couple of days, and they were sunburned and exhausted from the high temperatures. Certain areas, along Samburu and Taru were like an oven, making it impossible for them to continue walking. All they could do was to break their journey, and crouch under the cart for some form of shade.


























The land was a combination of hilly and flat terrain. Each day brought with it a new challenge, and being isolated from any form of help, made their mission even more dangerous. The land was crawling with wild animals. Clean drinking water was very scarce to find after their departure from Mombasa. Their medical supplies were minimal,and in case of an emergency, there were no clinics or hospitals anywhere along the route. The pastoral Masai fiercely guarded their territory, and did not welcome any outsiders, the consequences could likely end in a loss of life. Their chances of getting infected with malaria were high, although they had a small supply of quinine and chewed on 'neem' sticks continuously. Neem is a tree that grows widely in India and is known for its abundant medicinal qualities, one of which is a prophylactic for malaria. Many poisonous snakes were lurking every where, and the chances of getting bitten were also high. Even minute insects, such as jiggers could do severe damage to somebody's foot, as infections and gangrene were very likely after extraction. These were just a few of the risks out of a great many that they were exposed to, but it was a choice that each man made willingly and consciously.





Guided by the sun, they headed towards their destination the best way they could. Many times, having to turn around and find alternate routes, as something obstructed them.
They journeyed through forests, savannahs and thorn bushes, and were amazed to see the vast diversity and the untamed spectacle of the landscape. Equally they were intoxicated by the beauty of the wild animals roaming freely everywhere. From the shy zebra, whose young habitually stood together in pairs, back to head, watching out for each other, to the towering giraffe, whose stride generated the rhythmic and elegant swaying of their necks. Elephant herds were a serious threat, especially nursing cows who charged viciously at anything that caught their eye. The perfectly disguised lions lurking in the tall yellowy grass, waiting patiently to pounce on their prey, had been known to have had a few travellers for their dinner.














Living off dried fruit, nuts, dried fish, rice, and occasionally a guinea fowl when luck was on their side, their diets lacked in nutrients. They collected dried twigs and fallen pieces of wood to light their camp fires at night, as they went along their journey. Water was carried in the carts for both the animals and themselves, breaking at any stream or river to refill, which was a rarity.

One night they woke up with a fright as one of the men suddenly began to yell frantically. Thinking it was a lion, they hurriedly armed themselves with machetes and took cover under the cart. Attempting to calm and silence the man who by this time, had started to perform what looked like a very odd dance routine. Thumping his feet and slapping his body and head, he began to strip his clothing in the middle of the bush. The men glared at the performance that had turned into a road show, and realized that there was something other than a lion troubling their companion. On further investigation, they discovered huge ants with generous pincers that had dug deep into the man's flesh. 'Siafu' or safari ants had attacked him whilst he was sleeping, and were clinging fast on to him, refusing to let go. They had to pull the ants off one by one as another tried to slap them with a cloth, it was not an easy task. He suffered the consequences, as he was left with the sores all over his body and the only way to disinfect them, was with salted water which must have stung him even more. That night, they had to move their camp to a different location.

They walked through Mackinnon, Voi, Tsavo, Mtito Ende, all the way to the Kapiti Plains and Fort Hall, (Machakos). Finally they followed Athi river where the game was abundantly seen wondering over the plains.

On reaching Nairobi,they were unrecognizable due to the dust from the red soil that had heavily caked them from head to toe. Their thorn tattered clothes hung in shreds off their frail bodies. Towards the end of their journey,everything had caught up with them, and they were absolutely exhausted, weak, sick and malnourished. One of the men had dysentery and was desperately ailing.

When their long journey did come to an end, they were overcome with relief and joy, it was an experience they would never forget for as long as they lived, and they would be certain to pass it onto the generations that followed.













---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dedicated to my Father and Mother

DEDICATED TO MY FATHER AND MOTHER

T H E H O U S E T H A T S T O O D S T I L L



I begin the story from where I remember, before going back to where it all started..........


My Father was the ‘glue’ of the family, he was the chain that kept us together. Life with him was secure, exciting, warm and comforting. He had an aura that was so strong, his presence was felt the moment he set foot in a room. And when he did, the room froze, and all eyes gave him their divided attention. Strange as it may sound, he had that effect. He was an intelligent man, humble by nature, with a charm that was irresistible. Taller than average he was strikingly handsome, and to the joy of the ladies, very eligible. When he married, it was to the woman of his choice, an equally incredible woman, and the power of their love could clearly be felt any where they went.


Born in 1932 in Nakuru, he was a premature baby, and adopted the name of ‘Cotton wool baby.' Every night, after his bath my grandmother carefully wrapped a cotton wool blanket cut from the roll, to keep his tiny and frail little body warm. They named him Mohamed. It was believed by the community that to name him after the Prophet was a bad omen, but the family dismissed any superstition, blessing him with the name of their liking.

Mohamed Karimbux grew up to be an extremely compassionate man, with intense feelings and sensitivity to people around him, and to his environment. A curious and inquisitive man by far, it opened his mind to the wide world, loving the diversity in culture, music, architecture and the arts. Giving his attention to the strategic development of the family's businesses, he maintained and vastly improved the industries and commercial interests with high margin profits and maximum capacity. His self reliant personality together with his determination, hard work and devotion made him a highly respected figure with in the business society and the people of Nakuru. Mischievous at times, and a gifted humorist, he was a true example of a leader and a the best example of a father figure.

My mother, Aziza, (nee Sadiq) was a highly admired woman in Nakuru. She had poise and elegance that other women would envy and later imitate, but none of them were quite a match for her. Always immaculately dressed, from head to toe, her grooming was sophisticated, and her mannerism appealingly dignified and charming. She was a natural. As children, we would look forward to dressing up in her clothes and trying on her shoes and accessories at any given chance. Her wardrobe stretched half way down the room. Continuous lines of clothes hung above the lower shelves filled with a rainbow of multiple styles of handbags and shoes that we could never keep count of, as it was continuously up-dated to follow the ever changing fashion trends.

My parent’s marriage was perfect, in fact, so perfect, that it was too good to be true. Theirs was a marriage made in heaven. They loved each other immensely, and enjoyed their time together with equal trust, respect and support for each other. She was his angel, he was her prince, and together they made a fairy tale come true. Nothing could separate them, their eyes told it all, and they were the envy of most couples around them, yet to others, a perfect example of a union that was genuine, and quite rare.

Arranged marriages were compulsory, and these were strictly adhered to. Children were brought up with this tradition instilled firmly in them, and there was no exceptions to the rule . My mother, unbeknown to her, was engaged to a total stranger at the time of her birth and had no idea that this arrangement had taken place between her parents and the boy's parents. This sort of arrangement was a fairly common practice back then.

The first time my father set eyes on my mother, his mind was made up to marry her, he fell deeply in love with her, and the feeling was mutual. The love was instantly magnetic and they were determined to be together for the rest of their lives. Only they had the first hurdle to face and it was to be one of their first and most challenging experiences to encounter as a young couple in love. Aziza's parents refused to surrender to their pleas, as they felt they would be discredited for not keeping their word of honor or fulfilling their side of the bargain. It would bring shame and humiliation to the family. After months of pleading, many tears and bargaining, Aziza's parents finally gave in, it was something they never regretted for the rest of their lives.

The marriage took place in Nairobi, and my mother was taken on a 100-mile journey across the escarpment to the little town of Nakuru. He honored her, she cherished him, he treasured her, she valued him, he showered her with love, she reciprocated, he bought her the best, and she brought out the best in him. They were perfectly compatible, but life and nature do not go along with this theory. Nature is cruel, and is not a replica of a fairy-tale ending, as much as we dream and hope for it to be so.

BOOK ONE-Chapter 1- Winds of Change

CHAPTER ONE

Winds of Change

My great grandfather was an intelligent and very ambitious young man. Nothing could prevent him from making his dreams come to fruition. He had visions of being successful, and he desperately wanted his parents and family to have a better life. The hardships were many in India, and it was a downhill struggle surviving under the British Rule.

Being enterprising and head strong, his thirst for knowledge and adventure drove through every cell in his body. His mission in life was to be a dutiful Muslim, work hard, support his family, and be charitable. His compassion for people, especially those in less fortunate circumstances, was intense, even from a very young age. By nature, he was a kind and extremely giving man.

Seth Ibrahim Karimbux was born a Sunni Muslim, in Ambala, district of Punjab, India in 1876. (Ibrahim means, ‘Father of Nations’ in Arabic). Ibrahim was the elder of two brothers, with a maturity greater than his age. His younger brother, Abdullah was a carefree soul who never quite made it in life. Often he stole money from under his mother’s pillow to support his habits, he did enjoy his alcohol and got a taste for gambling, those were to be his weaknesses in life.

Ibrahim's father was a successful fruit-merchant. A hard working and honest soul, who faithfully brought home every penny of his daily earnings. Ibrahim assisted his father in the business and when he was not in the orchards purchasing supplies, he was actively seen in the village centre marketing and making fresh contacts. Together they formed a good team as they were as industrious as one another. Ibrahim’s father did not have to train the teenager much, he seemed to have a natural flair in the business sense.

Ibrahim was short in stature and of medium build. He had an oval face with dramatically piercing black eyes, a small, but sharp nose, and a small mouth, all framed with a neatly cut black beard and moustache. His head always clothed in a white ‘imamah’, (turban); a practice followed by Muslims for religious reasons,and also to differentiate them from non-Muslims. His everyday attire was the same, wearing a traditional outfit from Punjab, called a ’Sulwar Kameez’,(a long shirt coming below the knees, worn with baggy trousers), and a simple blue waistcoat or jacket.
Ibrahim walked with his head slightly tilted down, never quite straightening his neck to its full extent. It was as if he preferred not to draw any more attention than necessary to himself.


He thought very deeply about his intentions of leaving India, as his main concern was his brother Abdullah; wondering how his father would cope if he were not behaving. But he was also very aware of a bleak future in any business opportunities if he were to remain, as the British had control over the industries. He reflected on the history of his birthplace and India.

Ambala forms a part of the Indian state Haryana, and is located on the border, off the states of Haryana and Punjab. It lies on the North-Eastern edge of Haryana between 27-39"-45' North latitude and 74-33"-53' to 76-36"-52' East longitude. Flowing through the district are a number of non-perennial streams and due to that, it earned the name of ‘The Land of Five Rivers.’

There are a number of legends behind its name and according to one, it was discovered in the 14th century by someone called, ‘Amba Rajput.' According to another, it was named after the Goddess, ‘Bhawani Amba’. Another version claims that the town was originally called 'Amb Wala' (place of Mangoes), and over time it changed to its present name of Ambala. Ambala was given the status of a district in the year 1847.
Ambala is classified as being one of the great and famous historical districts of the state of Haryana.

The British built a Cantonment in Ambala that lay at an important junction on the ‘Great Trunk Road’ to enable easy access to Delhi and Chandigarh and other places. It now serves as a major highway today being widely and extensively used.

In 1857 a revolt took place over the introduction of 'Enfield rifles' with in the Indian Army. Unknown to the Indian soldiers, the cartridges had been greased with an ointment containing cow's fat and hog's lard. Once the news leaked, it did not go down well with both the Hindus and the Muslims, who were outraged, as it went against their religious teaching. The Hindus consider the cow as being sacred and therefore do not kill, handle or consume products originating from the corpse of a cow; and similarly, with Muslims, it is forbidden to consume or handle any products from pigs.

They soon formed alliances with in the corps, agreeing to socially boycott those that used the cartridges. This feeling continued to grow until a spirit of mutiny spread throughout northern India and Bengal. Almost the whole region of Haryana was severely affected by the revolt. And as a result of this, the first military station in northern India was based in Ambala on 10 May 1857.
By early June 1857, almost the entire region of Haryana had gained independence from the British. But half a year later, the rebels were crushed ruthlessly by the British army who let loose an unprecedented reign of terror, killing thousands of people and destroying property worth many rupees. They burned down hundreds of villages, whilst aimlessly killing anyone who came their way.

In India administrative and legal changes were introduced, by 1861 the Indian Council Act, High Court Act and Penal code were passed.
By 1868 the new Ambala to Delhi railway line begun construction, however, previously in 1853, the first railway line opened from Bombay to Thane.

A great famine was sweeping the country due to a combination of administrative failures and natural factors. In 1866 Bengal and Orissa, one million people perished and in 1869 one and a half million perished in Rajasthan and between 1876-78 famine had taken the lives of five million in Bombay, Madras and Mysore.

Indian industries suffered massively under the British domination. The superior and extensive sale of Indian handicrafts in Europe was directed to benefit commercial interests of the East India Company. The Whig government in the early years of the 18th century imposed heavy duties on Indians textiles imports in Britain. After the Napoleonic wars, Indian markets were opened to the British for free trading. The British government brought British goods that were pouring into India, either duty free or at nominal costs. The policy of the one-way free trade, introduced in India made the Indian handicrafts lose its market. This caused great misery to a major section of India's population. India was subjected in an ongoing economic stagnation. Local tradesmen, small enterprises and peasants reverted to borrowing money as they could least afford the high taxes imposed by the British.


Ibrahim had heard stories being swapped amongst the British people about British East Africa. They spoke highly of the country Kenya, and Ibrahim learned that there were great opportunities for those who were thirsty for adventure and favourable business prospects, on the condition that one was ready to face hardships. This intrigued him and his mind was made up to go to Kenya and make something out of his life. He planned to call for his entire family once he had succeeded. He had something important to prove to himself, he needed to find himself and recognize his strengths. Being opposed to having everything handed down to him from his father; his achievements were going to be his alone. However his conscientious nagged him tremendously as he knew most definitely, that without the second pair of helping hands, his father would suffer and consequently, so would his family. But he also knew, that by not leaving when his mind was made up, he would never leave.

In order to leave India, Ibrahim needed money for the long voyage to Kenya. Although he had managed to save a meager amount of his earnings, his conscience would not allow him to dip into it. Having two rupees in his pocket from the day's return, he surrendered himself to it. Leaving his savings for his young wife, he silently prayed for his family without revealing his intention. In his thoughts, he bade them a sad goodbye, and in the quiet of the night, Ibrahim slipped out into the darkness, destined to the unknown and facing the fear of never seeing them again. He knew that there was no turning back now. Ibrahim was only nineteen years old. He left behind his young wife, Karmi, a baby daughter and another one year old daughter . The year was 1895.

Ibrahim embarked on a long and treacherous journey by ‘vahan’, (the Gujarati word for dhow), from Porbandar, Gujarat, North-western India bound for the East African Coast of Mombasa, Kenya. Sailing on a ‘Bagala’, (one of the many names given to different types of dhows, that were classified by the shape of their hull), the journey would last about thirty days or longer. The dhow would be wind propelled by the north-easterly monsoons blowing from the Arabian Peninsula, beginning in November and lasting until March.

At dawn, a loud banging bellowed everywhere to alert the passengers to board the dhow. The winds and tide were in their favour to make a good start for the journey. With the anchor lifted and the sails set in motion, the giant pushed the waters aside with a sudden roll that shook the passengers with a shudder, knocking some of them onto one another. Ibrahim looked intently at the shores that he had just left behind. In the distance, he could see the fishing vessels being prepared for their daily task and the dockworkers bustling about their business. He felt a pang of sadness creep over him, as he saw himself being pulled further away from his family and homeland. He sat motionless, in silence, gazing out, until the thin line separating the sea from the land sank beneath the ocean. Reaching in his pocket for his white handkerchief, he caught the beginning of a teardrop.


His home for the next month would be at sea, and the dangers of journey were many. Sometimes vessels would get lost, never to be found again, and the chances of capsizing in a heavy storm were great. There was no telling how the temperament of the winds or the sea would behave; only nature could determine their course.

Ibrahim gathered his thoughts as the billowing sails flapped mercilessly, jolting him back to reality. Turning his gaze and looking around him, he noticed that some of the passengers had made friends with each other, and were busy engaging themselves in their life stories. Others were nodding off to sleep, having propped their bundle of clothing behind their heads. A few were sharing their snacks around, whilst at the far end, a handful of men remained standing, their bodies swaying from side to side as they leaned heavily into the railing, fixated in their own thoughts. He made friends with a man called Mr Adamji Noorbhai, the two became firm allies, it was a bond that lasted a life time.

The meals consisted of fish that were caught on a daily basis and an evening supper of boiled rice. On days when fish was unavailable, a bowl of boiled ‘dhaal’ (lentils) was served, and sometimes Dates were provided as a treat. Water was stored in make shift tanks, and was utilized for cooking, drinking and washing. Sometimes the slightly unhygienic conditions gave rise to stomach infections and other illnesses. The medical provisions were minimum.

Ibrahim sat quietly watching the dark blue water of the sea that reflected the deep turquoise skies with thinning clouds trailing into each other making pictures that told a story. His tired eyes focused beyond, on the thin line separating the sea from the land, he watched as it grew higher and wider, rising a little at a time from behind the sea, until he saw no more but a lighthouse and the gray stone wall above him.









Please read this link for ancient history of India
http://www.gatewayforindia.com/history/british_history3.htm






-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
PHOTOS
1) Seth Ibrahim Karimbux
2) Ambala- Map of Punjab
4) The Trunk Road, Ambala
5) A Dhow
6) Sea Routes from India

BOOK COVER-HOUSE THAT STOOD STILL

THE HOUSE THAT STOOD © SHAILLA MATLOCK-KARIMBUX 2010

PREFACE BY THE AUTHOR


I AM THE FOURTH GENERATION OF THE KARIMBUX FAMILY. THE KARIMBUX’S WERE ONE OF THE FIRST PIONEERS AMONGST MANY OTHER ASIAN FAMILIES TO HAVE SETTLED IN KENYA IN 1895. THEY MADE A GREAT NAME FOR THEMSELVES AND HAD A HISTORY THAT GOES BACK A LONG WAY.

THE BOOK HAS NOT BEEN WRITTEN WITH INTENTION TO RECORD A HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF KENYA, AS THERE IS NO SHORTAGE OF LITERATURE REGARDING THAT.

AS A YOUNG CHILD, I HAD A STRONG URGE TO WRITE ABOUT MY FAMILY. NOT ONLY WERE THEY HEROES IN MY MIND, BUT THEY WERE TRULY DEDICATED TO KENYA, AND CONTRIBUTED TREMENDOUSLY TO THE COUNTRY AND THE COMMUNITY. OUR FAMILY HISTORY DID NOT COME EASY, MY FOREFATHERS WORKED TIRELESSLY TO BUILD THE KARIMBUX DYNASTY IN THE DAYS OF COLONIALISM.

MY GREAT GRANDFATHER, SETH IBRAHIM KARIMBUX WAS A COURAGEOUS AND RIGHTEOUS MAN. HE WAS A SELF-MADE GENTLEMAN WHO EARNED HIS RESPECT AND POPULARITY AMONGST THE CITIZENS OF NAKURU AND ITS' NEIGHBOURING TOWNS. HIS TWO SONS, UMARDIN AND YUSUF KARIMBUX FOLLOWED CLOSELY IN IBRAHIM'S FOOTSTEPS, AS DID MY FATHER, MOHAMED KARIMBUX AND MY UNCLE, YAKUB KARIMBUX.

THE EVENTS THAT UNFOLD ARE TRUE TO MY WORD AND ARE BASED ON FACTUAL EVENTS THAT CHARACTERIZED AND SHAPED A FAMILY.


READ ON AS THE TRUE STORY OF A MAN WHO CAME TO AFRICA IN 1896, UNFOLDS TO REVEAL A REMARKABLE STORY OF GENERATIONS, THAT WAS STARTED BY A BRAVE PENNILESS MAN.

IT HAS BEEN A SHEER JOY WRITING THE BOOK AND I HOPE THAT YOU ENJOY IT JUST AS MUCH.

THE NAMES OF SOME CHARACTERS AND PLACES COULD BEEN CHANGED TO PROTECT THEIR IDENTITY. THEY HAVE BEEN MARKED WITH AN ASTRIX.

SHAILLA MATLOCK-KARIMBUX




DEDICATION

I dedicate this book to all the brave men and women, regardless of religion, cast, breed or culture who worked unselfishly and tirelessly in our great Country, Kenya. They gave us life and made us what we are today. I admire their strength, courage and fortitude, they were invaluable and contributed immensely to their families, country and society. Above all, their determination, ambition and commitment earned them respect and honor. These are the people who made a difference, they touched the souls of their families, friends, strangers and an entire Nation.

For my Father, you came as an angel, a guiding light, spreading afar your love, kindness, humanity, faith and wisdom. You remain an angel and a great mentor to me, always in my heart forever.

For my loved ones who have passed on, and whom I dearly love. They are with me in heart,spirit and mind.
Ibrahim Karimbux, Umardin Karimbux, Yusuf Karimbux, Mohamed Karimbux, Yakub Karimbux, Karmi Karimbux, Kalsoom Karimbux, Kharunisa Karimbux, Tehsin Karimbux, Talib Karimbux, Fatama Alam, Razia Swaria, Shamim Chaudry, Idris Chaudry, Sultana Gaffoor, Zubeda Karimbux, Hazra Saayid
You are the jewels sent down from heaven, the diamonds in the night sky, the beams of sunshine that light our way. You are precious gifts from God and we miss you all dearly.

I also dedicate this book to my immediate family, who have inspired me and encouraged me to follow my dreams

To my husband Chris Matlock, you are everything to me and much, much more. Thank you for standing by me and valuing the same passion of honoring one's family. Your love, support, faith and ideals mean everything to me. Thank you for reading the book and assisting me with ideas, you are my inspiration, soul mate and true love.

To my son, Aden Jones, who is my life and joy. Thank you for standing by me and giving me so much of yourself in kindness, support, understanding and love; without you I would not have had the motivation to finish this book. You are a most wonderful son who we love and cherish.

My Mother, Aziza Karimbux, for being such a special mother, grandmother, wife and
friend with so much love, kindness and compassion. Thank you for your continuous support and faith in me, you are a blessing and an extraordinary person. I love you so much. The love between dad and you was heavenly; it was a blessing and a beautiful gift from God that was truly pure and tender. You may have alzheimers now but you are still our very beautiful mother to us and we love you ever more. May God bless you always with eternal peace and love.



ABOUT THE AUTHOR

I have known Shailla for many years. She approached me initially with the idea of her book in 2002, and asked me to write an introductory page, though I chose to remain anonymous.

When Shailla talked about her sentiments in writing a book dedicated to 'The memory of keeping her great-grandfather, Ibrahim's name alive', I listened with intrigue and excitement. She emphasized her aim was not to make money, but to satisfy a deep hunger of a vision she kept locked up for many years. 'It has always been a strong desire of mine to preserve and share the memories of my forefathers, and to pass their story down to the newer generations of our family, and also to our beautiful friends, so they too can appreciate the family roots; if I don't, then who will?'. She pointed out that, 'Not one book had been dedicated solely to a Punjabi Muslim pioneer, yet there are variable and excellent books written about notable African, European and Asian figures from other communities. 'I owe this to my family as a tribute for selflessly giving their life, love and hard work to us and so many others, I would not be where I am today, had it not been for them', I quote.

Shailla's quest initially begun in 2001 when she started tracing her family's history. She collected information through archives, articles, diaries, letters, documents and family members. In 2002-2003, she approached as many of her father's and grandfather's close family friends who lived in and around Nairobi, arranging to interview them and their families. With pen and notebook in hand, she took down meticulous notes, and completed the interviews equipped with thoughtful and relevant questions. I, for one was interviewed and had the honor of contributing to a noble and worthy idea.

Shailla completed a draft of her book on her return from South Africa in 2004, I had the pleasure of reading a beautifully written book, and thank her for inspiring myself and others in doing so.

THROUGH MY EYES............

I chose to write this book in a simplistic style and 'through my eyes'. The book has been subdivided into four sections.

Book One - The First Generation
Book Two - The Second Generation
Book Three - The Third Generation
Book Four - The Fourth Generation.